You can wait

I spent half of yesterday doing something I didn’t want to do (trying to find a courier) so I could do something else I didn’t want to do (send my signed sale agreement and associated documents to my lawyer in Wellington). At one office a lady quoted me 330 lei (about NZ$120) for an estimated delivery time of two weeks. Sorry, what? Did I hear that Romanian number correctly? Trei sute treizeci? Doamne. After biking here, there and everywhere, and finding offices had been relocated to other parts of the city, I found a place that could get it to NZ in two days for $100. It was 5:05 by then, and too late for them to send it. I’d have to wait till the morning. But then I thought, that’s still bloody ridiculous. Bugger the body corporate committee and their fake urgency. Who knows when they’ll even invoke the agreement. I popped it in the normal post today. That cost $10. They said it would be there in nine working days. I know we’re talking about property and six-figure sums—hopefully I’ll still get a six-figure sum if and when the place sells! I paid $354,000 for it 8½ years ago—but I couldn’t handle the principle of blowing a hundred bucks (for probably no reason) on sending a sodding envelope.

Yesterday I also had a genuinely urgent situation to deal with. This laptop was making a racket. I was sure it was the fan. (It has a solid-state hard drive.) If my laptop dies, I’m pretty seriously compromised, especially in the world of online lessons. I told four of my students that our lessons probably wouldn’t be happening. I backed up my data and in the morning I took it in to the repair shop down the road (just before Piața Bălcescu). In no time they had the back off. The thermal paste (which I’d only just learned about) had turned to dust, and two blades had detached from the fan. This will be expensive. And slow. Blow me down, at 3pm I got a phone call to say it had been repaired. It cost me 150 lei ($55). I’ll still need to source a fan from Ebay – it’s hard to get a replacement in Romania – and they’ll be able to fit it for me.

On Saturday I went on my first decent bike ride since we locked down in March. I did my usual trip to Sânmihaiu Român. I’d forgotten how noisy the Bega gets with all the frogs. Yeah, I do need to get myself a new bike.

On Friday morning I had coffee on the sunny balcony of one of my students. We spoke Romanian for an hour in a low-stress situation, and I felt a certain sense of pride at being able to communicate reasonably well in someone else’s language. It’s such a rewarding feeling, especially because Romanian is both beautiful and an unusual language for people to learn.

Mum was telling me that she’d been to the funeral of a woman I knew in Temuka. She would have been about 85. She was from an enormous Catholic family – ten children I think – but never had a family of her own. She was a very kind person, but quite shy. I went to see Whale Rider with her in Geraldine in March 2004, days before I moved up to Auckland to take that job. Apparently she had a habit of arriving at church late and leaving early – perhaps she didn’t want the conversation – and the priest joked that she was on time for once. Mum also recently went to her 95-year-old aunt’s funeral in Mosgiel – this was her mother’s younger sister.

New Zealand is at Level 1. They seem to have crushed Covid. Apart from the fact that it’s now hermetically sealed, everything is back to normal there. On the phone, my parents and I joke about NZ’s “smug level” (that’s after my aunt described NZ as being unduly smug about their low case numbers). Both my parents would prefer to be back at Level 4, I think. Dad’s migraines are an ongoing problem and he quite liked being unable to see anybody. As for Romania, we’re doing pretty well in Timiș with very few new cases, but in the rest of the country this thing sure isn’t going away. Around ten Romanians are dying every day on average.

I can’t breathe

There was a whole load of Spandau Ballet on Radio Timișoara’s Musicorama show this evening. I’m not a big fan, but my brother is, and it all reminded me of his Spandau Ballet-tinged wedding, two years ago now.

When I spoke to Mum on Sunday, she said she wished New Zealand was still under lockdown. She cherished the peace and quiet. So did I. Here it’s back to queues of traffic and honking horns. I miss being able to hear birds in the park, and trains clattering by in the distance.

If things weren’t bad enough, America has taken yet another upsetting turn in the last week. The brutal crushing to death of George Floyd, captured in a harrowing nine-minute video – how many more George Floyds were never caught on camera? – has led to mass protests and riots, all in the middle of a pandemic. There are endless video clips of police violence. The disease will have spread in these protests and people will die. This strong backlash to police brutality feels like a tipping point, something that transcends America’s dreadful partisanship. Trump has been appallingly inactive and silent, outside of Twitter. If the election were held tomorrow, I would be confident in predicting the end of that vile creature, but it’s five months away, which in these extraordinary times is an eternity. Thanks to the vagaries of the electoral college, he could easily still win.

Britain can’t quite compete with the US, but they’re giving it a jolly good go. For the UK it’s been a perfect storm. After the immature 3½-year faff with Brexit, anyone with an ounce of common sense and humility got elbowed out of power in December’s election if they hadn’t been already, and now you’ve got a government who’d be out of their depth even under normal circumstances. Then coronavirus came along. Now they’ve ditched the remote parliament – the only good political thing to come out of this crisis – and today there were farcical scenes of a ridiculously long queue to vote.

I’ve spent most of the last two days working on a dictionary for problematic words for the book. I’m still near the beginning of the Cs – almost the whole alphabet still to do.

Possessions

This morning’s service at the cathedral took place outside, but tomorrow will see another easing of the lockdown. Although other parts of Romania are still suffering, we now have very few active cases in Timiș, after being hit quite hard early on because of our proximity to the border. Let’s hope it stays that way. Yesterday I visited a bike shop – masks were mandatory, my temperature was checked on the way in, and at the checkout we all stood on blue circles two metres apart from each other. These measures will remain in force.

Last week the Romanian teacher gave me the encouragement to press on with my book, of which I’ve now written about 90 pages. After all the angst with the flat in Wellington, that put a much-needed spring in my step.

I’ve confirmed that I will sign the sale agreement, but I let the committee know that I wasn’t a massive fan of the way they’ve handled the process. They’ve been deliberately opaque about the number of signatures they’ve received, making each non-signer feel like they’re the only one, then putting a gun to their head by imposing a tight, and totally bogus, deadline. What tipped me into signing is that I just wanted out of the whole thing. I never want to hear of body corporates again. If I was still living there and had been exposed all this time to three-hour meetings and endless officialese and the chair’s oh-so-rounded vowels, I’d have gone round the bend.

Mum and Dad talked this morning about how materialistic the world has become. Dad said it’s horrifying how obsessed with stuff we’ve become since the sixties and seventies. Although I wasn’t around then, I really despise materialism, and living in Romania has allowed me to live an unashamedly simple life with few material possessions. And it’s not like I have the money to splash around anyway. This isn’t 2007.

The bike shop and back was a 9 km walk. All I needed was a new inner tube. But then I thought, I really could do with a new bike. The cheapest ones were 500 lei, but the one I really liked was 1200, or about NZ$440. It was a Dutch-style bike, with baskets on the front and back, and white tyres. Just what I would need to get to my lessons and the markets. I saw it was made in Portugal rather than Asia. That isn’t a ton of money to spend on a bike, though it feels like it. I should probably just damn well buy it.

Run out of road

If the world hadn’t been turned upside down, Mum and Dad would have been making their way here about now. It seems a lifetime ago that long-haul travel was even thinkable.

My grandmother (Dad’s mum) would have been 98 today. Ten years ago she was still around, thanks to the marvels of modern medicine, and I was staying with her in the UK. I took her to a pub in Houghton for a birthday lunch – it was deathly quiet. I wrote about my time with my grandmother – my last time, sadly, before she passed away in January 2012 – in my old blog, which I called Fixed and Floating.

Ah yes, Fixed and Floating. I called it that because (a) I supposedly had a life and a career but in reality I was directionless, and (b) I was living in New Zealand, a country obsessed with the housing market. At the time I was even living in Auckland, where the feeding frenzy was quite ludicrous. “Do you fix or float your mortgage?” was a common topic around the water cooler.

When I did buy my first property, I fixed part of my mortgage but had a revolving-credit facility for the rest, so I wouldn’t risk losing my flat if the house of cards (a.k.a. my job) caved in, which of course it did almost the moment I moved in. And now, eight years on, I’ve decided to sell my flat at a gigantic loss. A horrible decision, but I (and the other owners who didn’t want to sell originally) have finally run out of road. Every morning lately I’ve woken up to emails where people have written screeds, and I’ve been forced to take an interest in something I’m nowhere near thinking about caring about. I think the body corporate committee, especially the chair, secretly enjoy all the expansive language and officiousness. I’ve now had three Zoom meetings, including one on Monday that lasted an hour and 50 minutes. I won’t make Sunday’s deadline to sign, because of all the legal requirements, but the body corporate have said I’ll be OK if get all the wheels in motion. This morning I saw a notary public (in Romania this is simply called a notar) to certify my ID documents. Surprisingly she didn’t make me take off my mask – none of the pictures on my passports and driver’s licence look much like the current version of me, even maskless. It might take ages for us to sell (the pandemic won’t help), but in the meantime I’ll still receive rental income, and I’ll be able to concentrate on things I care about, like teaching, writing this book, learning a language or two, and maybe even travelling when that becomes an option again. It’s absolutely bloody awful but I just have to make the best of it.

On Tuesday I finally dared to visit the market, so I could buy some strawberries. They were very good.

The word of the day

Today turned to shit pretty much as soon as I got up, when I saw I had a Zoom meeting request for 10am about agreement to sell the apartment block in Wellington. I attended the meeting – four members of the body corporate committee and me – and they pretty much put a gun to my head, even threating court proceedings if I refuse to sell. The most maddening thing of all is still their blind acceptance of our fate. Everything’s shit, but so be it. I’m beginning to wonder whether selling might be the best option psychologically. Get the whole damn thing over with and start again. They gave me ten days to sign (or not sign, in which case they still want to go ahead with the sale anyway, without the half-dozen or so like me who haven’t yet signed). Oh shit.

In between my two lessons with near-teenage boys, I got a call from a woman who wanted me to join some teaching platform. She was basically trying to sell me shit. She wanted to arrange a discussion. I called her back, we had a discussion of sorts, but in those situations I get stressed and my Romanian quickly turns to shit.

During my second lesson my aunt called. She was calling me about some photos I’d taken in 2008 that I emailed her on Monday. They included four female generations of the family: my grandmother, her, my cousin and her (then) three-year-old daughter. My brother was also there, as was my aunt’s dog who died recently. I described to her the situation with my apartment which she was unaware of. In her words she said it was pretty shit. She was amazed I would fail to even get my initial investment back. If only!

I’ve been reading about nursing homes in Oxfordshire – an expensive home that cost a whopping £1500 a week, where coronavirus has been kept under control, and others where just reading about it is heartbreaking. Shit doesn’t even come close.

Shopping in the Covid era

This morning I got my temperature checked on the way in to the supermarket. Two young guys were refused entry because they were maskless. In the fruit and vege area I battled those damn plastic bags with gloves and no saliva. At the checkout I got a nasty surprise as my bank card didn’t work. I tapped the PIN in twice but wasn’t going to risk it a third time (three strikes and you’re out, of course). The lady let me leave my trolley-basket there while I visited a cash machine and raided my New Zealand account. Everything then had to be re-scanned. What a pain. Then I faced what has become the usual routine: packing everything into my two backpacks to the intermittent sounds made by the nearby grab-a-furry-toy game called Happy Zoo, while trying not let the yoghurts or bags of rice split. Then I had to lug it all home. I’ll pop to the bank tomorrow morning. When I got back home, I had my now-weekly chat with my aunt. She was bored, and assumed I would be too. I don’t think I’ve felt ever bored during this pandemic, barring perhaps the first few days.

This afternoon I had that awkward FaceTime lesson with the ten-year-old. I was happy for him to spend the final 20 minutes describing Brawl Stars to me (in very good English, it must be said). Apart from the fact that it’s a game that uses cartoon-like characters and they fight each other (hence the name), I’m none the wiser. “I’ve won 9700 trophies.” Wow, that’s a lot. Where do you keep them all? This morning I had my first face-to-face lesson since March. We met in the park and sat at opposite ends of the bench. I was on the verge of a heated argument with her when she expressed her views that the virus was semi-fake (“but people die all the time”); I reined myself in, thankfully. It was good to see her again for the first time in February. I feel sorry for her because she has to bring up her six-year-old son on her own, and he’s very underweight and understrength for his age.

Yesterday I had a lesson that included an article on the 1988 FA Cup final. Other highlights have been the UK-based guy’s comments that nursing homes “sound like a bit of fun” and my 25-year-old student’s fascinating description of preparing, singeing, cutting and smoking a pig for Christmas. It’s pleasing to me that young Romanians are still interested in those traditions.

Tomorrow I’ve got no lessons at all, and once I’ve sorted out my bank card, I absolutely must crack on with the English book.

The eruption of Mount St Helens, 40 years ago today

Relaxation

Cracks had already been showing in the lockdown for some time. It was inevitable really – the warm weather, the light evenings until nine, and the general feeling of lockdown fatigue meant that people were itching to get outside. Then came yesterday, when the state of emergency was officially replaced by a state of alert, and it was like a switch had been flipped. Still fewer people than normal, but a big increase.

So what’s new? If you’re staying within the city, you no longer have to fill in a form to say where you’re going and why. Most shops and fast food kiosks are now open. Restaurants, bars and cafés remain closed (inside and out), as do malls (good!). Services are starting up at the cathedral again, but outside. Schools won’t be going back until September. The Romanian school year ends in June, so unless you reschedule it somehow, there’s no point in going back before the autumn. Although the UK school year finishes in July, it would be best if the Brits called the whole thing off too.

I’m still going up and down the stairs with those ten litres of water on my back. People often ask me, “Isn’t the lift working?” Today I tried counting the steps in Serbian, eight at a time, up to hiljada dvadeset četiri (1024).

This morning they repainted the pedestrian crossing below my apartment, with a twist. People in the UK are told to be alert; in Romania you have to B sharp instead:

When I walked by the Bega this afternoon I saw a hornet’s nest. I hadn’t seen hornets for ages. Maybe they were those killer hornets I’d been warned about. This is what the Bega looked like today:

Britain: what’s gone wrong?

When I moved to New Zealand in 2003, I was proud to be British. All the wonderful music and comedy that appeared on my TV screen made me homesick. I still remember how I felt when I went back to the UK in 2006 – this is a cool country. New Zealand is picturesque and everything, but it’s culturally dead. This place, on the other hand, is humming.

But now I switch on the TV and it’s the UK that seems culturally dead. It’s felt that way for years, long before this pandemic hit. Is Brexit to blame? Is it the internet? Something is missing. It seems the London Olympics in 2012 were Britain’s last hurrah, and since then the UK has become an increasingly inward-looking nation. Perhaps it’s just me looking in from the outside, and if I lived in the UK everything would feel as alive as ever (once you ignore the effects of coronavirus, of course).

I watched bits of Boris in parliament this afternoon. I’ve heard some people say that he’s mad (and the same of Trump). Maybe, but that’s not the right criticism. There’s nothing wrong with being a bit mad. The most interesting, most creative people tend to head in that direction. (The attraction of Romania to me as opposed to, say, Hungary or Poland, was that it would be a bit madder. Things would be faded, rusty, coming apart at the seams. Things might smell a bit. Colours wouldn’t match. My kind of place.) No, the problem with Boris is that he’s massively overprivileged. He hasn’t got to his position by being any good; he’s got there on this connections, on being able to make it up as he goes along, on having far too much self-confidence pumped into him at Eton. In a pandemic crisis like this, you need attention to detail, clarity of message, and bucketloads of sincerity. In other words, Boris is exactly who you don’t want at the helm. He’s potentially dangerous. (He’s still better than Trump, though. With Trump, there’s no potentially about it. That guy is evil. In all 17-plus stone of him, there is not an ounce of empathy.)

I had a sad lesson this afternoon with the woman I once played tennis with. She’s clearly been unhappy in her marriage for some time, and is now having Skype meetings with a psychologist. After the session we had a good chat in Romanian, and I felt I did reasonably well.

The nightmare with my apartment in Wellington means I’ve gone eight years without caring about money, except at a basic level. I’d pretty much given up on achieving any sort of long-term financial strength, because that ship seemed to have sailed. And really I’d checked out about four years before I got that awful letter from the council – I still had my career in insurance, but I was going through the motions. Now though, having hit 40, it’s about time I did something. I’ve managed to kill off most of my mortgage, and my immediate goal is to eradicate it completely. With KiwiSaver and the little pots of money I have in the UK and Romania, my financial situation isn’t all that dire when you consider the enormous loss I’ve incurred in Wellington. My almost total avoidance of expenditure on anything I can’t eat has helped.

Radio Timișoara plays all sorts of weird and wonderful music, most of it surprisingly good. I sometimes Shazam the songs when I hear them. Usually (but not always), Shazam tracks down the artist and the song title, and tells me how many people have Shazammed the song to date. These numbers are often in six or seven figures, but with lesser-known Romanian songs they might only be in the dozens or hundreds. On Monday I got a bit of a surprise when I heard a new song by Ștefan Bănică (Junior – his father died some time ago). This song had interesting lyrics, including Ceaușescu and Simona Halep. I was the first person to Shazam the song:

Then a few minutes later I heard a song I liked by a band from Timișoara called All In Green. This time I was a bit tardy and had to settle for bronze:

Contrast that with Master Blaster (Jammin’) on this evening’s Stevie Wonder-themed show. Fantastic song; nearly 1.6 million searches. (The song was made in 1979 and came out in ’80, just like me.)

Savouring the peace and quiet

Today I’ve translated part of The Magic Finger into Romanian as an exercise, I’ve practised some Serbian, I’ve worked on my book, I’ve written six short fill-in-the-gaps stories for my newest student, and I’ve been up and down the stairs eight times. I also had a quick walk this afternoon – noticeably more people were out than a month ago, but the quiet was still lovely, and I caught the first whiff of Timișoara’s distinctive late-spring and early-summer aroma. In some ways I’d prefer the lockdown to continue beyond this coming Friday.

In one of John Campbell’s latest videos, he talks about the higher mortality rate from coronavirus among people with darker skin, even when you remove the effects of underlying health conditions. The pattern is repeated all over the world, and the excess mortality rate increases progressively as one’s skin gets darker. He is convinced that this is because people with higher melanin levels (i.e. darker skin) produce immunity-boosting vitamin D more slowly, and is frustrated that this biological effect isn’t being talked about. It’s OK to talk about the socio-economic factors (which are massive too) but skin colour is somehow off-limits; you can’t go there, even if going there would save lives. Although I have white skin, I’m taking 2000 international units of vitamin D per day.

It’s time to call my brother again.

Flashback to ’95

Last night I lay awake thinking about when I’ll see (and hug) my mother again. I feel I have an almost complete relationship with my father just though voice calls and emails, but with Mum it isn’t the same.

This Friday will be the 75th anniversary of VE Day. I remember the 50th anniversary well. I was fifteen, it was a sunny Monday, and we had a barbecue and drinks in the garden. I took Seagers gin from the cabinet at regular intervals, added it to my orange juice, and nobody seemed to notice. I doubt I would have been in much trouble anyway – my parents weren’t big drinkers, but they had fairly relaxed attitudes to their kids getting hold of the stuff. Vera Lynn (still alive today at 103) was rolling out the barrel. It was a happy occasion, and of course so many World War Two veterans were still alive, including my grandparents. My grandfather, a squadron leader during and after the war, already had quite advanced Alzheimer’s by then.

It was a different world in 1995. The internet was this new thing, touted as the information superhighway, with all its cyber-slashes and dots and dashes that normal people still had no need for. Normal people made do with 1471, a handy number you dialled to tell you who called last. (And people still talked about dialling numbers then.)

When I think of ’95, I also think of sport. Costantino Rocca’s 50-foot putt at the Open, Blackburn’s Premier League title and various ups and downs through the divisions, and then Jonah Lomu’s destruction of England in the rugby World Cup. (I remember I switched over from that ridiculous match – it felt like a boxing match that I hoped could be stopped – and instead watched a very long third set at Queen’s Club which Pete Sampras barely survived.) I also think of an essay our English teacher asked us to write, called “The Class of ’95”. We had to imagine a school reunion taking place this year – in 2020. She told us that statistically, one or two of us (out of 25 or so) wouldn’t make it. I didn’t enjoy the essay – the idea of a reunion didn’t appeal at all – though I imagined I’d be living in New Zealand by then. I never would have guessed I’d have moved to NZ and then to Romania. Where even was Romania?

I wonder how Britain would have handled coronavirus in ’95. The government response would surely have been more sober, more dignified. Those were not partisan times. John Major would not have declared 20,000-plus deaths a success – that would have been too obscene. There would have been less information, but less misinformation too. Right now though, living thousands of miles from the rest of my family, I’d take having the superhighway during this pandemic over living in 1995 and not having it.