Flashing orange men

Just like in New Zealand and the UK, pedestrian crossings have a red and a green man. There must be penalties for jaywalking here, because people are remarkably obedient when it comes to the red man considering how unbothered they usually are by authority. Anyway, red man, green man, easy (once I’ve got out of the habit of looking the wrong way). But this week I saw a flashing orange man. What do I do here? I was stumped. All that Romanian I’d painstakingly learnt, and none of it was helping me translate flashing orange man.

And I’m running into flashing orange men everywhere I go. On Monday I went to the library. A bit of background: Romania consists of forty-odd județe, which are like counties. This library is the central library of the Timiș județ, so it’s a bit like Wellington Central Library in NZ, or Cambridge Central Library in the UK, or any number of pretty big libraries. Or so I thought. The library is conveniently situated in Piața Libertății, one of the main squares in the centre of town where people hang out and relax. I always thought it was weird how I rarely saw anyone go in or out of the library entrance, but maybe there was some tradesman’s entrance that I didn’t know about. So I popped in. There was a guard at a desk. “Um, library? Er, this way?” Yes, he assured me. I went upstairs and downstairs, four fairly decrepit floors in all, and the only thing I found was a reading room with a solitary woman, well, reading. And that was it. Bemused, I walked back to where the guard was. “Er, so where are the books?” He pointed. Ah. In a small room to the left, on the same floor. I walked in, or tried to, but was stopped by another man, this time at a window. “Spuneți, vă rog.” Speak, please. But what was I supposed to say? He then said, “English?” No, not this again. This isn’t a language barrier, this is a flashing orange man barrier. I said in English, “I just want to look at some books,” but then gave up and walked out. I’d expected to see a whole shelf devoted to Mihai Eminescu, a kids’ section with beanbags and “storytime”, a selection of DVDs, a bank of computers, maybe even a coffee machine, but it felt like I’d been transported back a hundred years. I could see why hardly anybody ever went in.

Talking of tradesman’s entrance… I was starting to get a bit frustrated with my lack of work, when on Thursday morning I got a call from someone supposedly wanting a lesson. I was pleased to hold the conversation together in Romanian, and delighted when he wanted to come at 2pm that same day. He then switched to English, and asked me how old I was. Then he asked if I had a boyfriend and whether he could get to know me better. Alarm bells were ringing. He didn’t turn up at 2pm and I was reasonably grateful for that. He does however still have my address.

Yes, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t a bit frustrated at the moment. The worst thing is that my Skype student, who provided about half my business, seems to have dropped off the face of the earth. She still owes me 80 euros, not a lot in the grand scheme of things I suppose but it’s still more than a week’s rent. At this point I’d say it’s less than 50:50 that I’ll ever hear from her again. I did 8½ hours last week; that isn’t nothing but it’s a third of what I’d like. Marketing myself is proving damn near impossible in the absence of lamp-post ads (I saw today that one of the Donald Trump ones I put up outside Piața 700 in November is still there). Adverts in shops just aren’t a thing here, with the exception of the notice board in Kaufland, a large supermarket. I’ll knock on the doors of six or seven language schools next week, armed with business cards and my CV full of unrelated jobs. I’ll also pop into the offices of some publications here. Some of them have English content geared towards expats (or, more accurately, immigrants) like me, but it isn’t English as I know it. Perhaps they’d appreciate a hand (or perhaps not). The biggest thing I can do is get out much more in the daytime like I used to, because heck, it’s a cool city to wander around in, and the money I’m saving by always having my lunch at home is surely outweighed by the health (and who knows, financial) benefits of being outside and in contact with people.

Hell’s bells

Today I watched the second day of Romania’s controversial Fed Cup encounter with Britain that was played on clay (a surface that favoured Romania) in Constanța. It was controversial because of Ilie Năstase’s stupid remarks that saw him expelled from the competition. The first day’s two singles matches had been split, so whoever won two of today’s three matches would win. Simona Halep easily beat Johanna Konta (whose service action is nearly as weird as mine) but then came a much more competitive match between Irina Begu and Heather Watson. Begu won 6-4 7-5 after an enthralling second set that must have taken 70 minutes. The doubles therefore didn’t matter, and because it didn’t matter it was decided on a super tie-break with the British pair winning. Romania’s overall win was the result I wanted, even though they were playing the country of my birth. Weird, isn’t it?

I’m looking forward to this week. I’ll be teaching the boy again. Friday’s back-to-back lessons reminded me of how much I enjoy my new job. After this I couldn’t possibly go back to jobs where I was so unstimulated and unmotivated that I’d end up pissing about on the internet and then feel terrible about that. I just need more of this. On Wednesday I had a lesson with the cycling enthusiast we study a song every second lesson (well, study is going a bit far) and this time I chose Penny Lane, the second Beatles song I’ve chosen so far. Quite reasonably he wondered whether Penny Lane was a street, a person or perhaps a shop. I explained to him what a mac was, then I had to explain what a poppy was. Poppy just happens to be mac in Romanian. That was funny. As for “a four of fish and finger pies”, I couldn’t really help him. He astutely guessed that “a four of fish” and “finger pies” were two separate items.

If I can get enough work, and it’s a big if, I have no reason to leave Timișoara. (If I can’t, I guess I’ll eventually have no choice.) I’ve got used to the 396 daily strikes of the cathedral bells, the pigeons sitting (and shitting) on my window sills, the whiff of hot bread from the bakery down below, and the old men playing chess and cards (those cards with wheels and cups and things, not the ones I’m used to) in Central Park. Just in case you’re wondering why it’s 396, you get one dong at quarter past, two at half-past, three at quarter to, and four on the hour. Every hour, day and night. So that’s ten dongs an hour or 240 per day. Then on the hour you get one additional dong per hour (from a different bell to the one that strikes every 15 minutes), e.g. eight dongs at 8 o’clock. All the numbers from 1 to 12 add up to 78, and we need to double that for AM and PM, so that gets us to 156 additional hourly dongs. Add that to 240 and we have 396. But that’s not all! There are several services every day, each marked by a vigorous peal of bells. The first of these is at 7am.

In about an hour and a half we’ll get preliminary results from the first round of the very intriguing French election.

A short break with some tall people

My brother called me yesterday morning to wish me a happy birthday. He said he got a Facebook message saying that it was Hitler’s birthday which reminded him that it was mine too. I’m not that keen on this whole birthday thing anymore. That’s half the reason I came to Romania; I could feel the years gradually slipping away.

Flying out of Timișoara is almost as easy as flying from Timaru. My flight landed at Stansted on the dot of six but I didn’t get to St Ives until after nine; I just happened to miss both the train and the bus by a couple of minutes. By that stage I was ravenous and grabbed a curry. My brother (6 foot 3) and his girlfriend (6 foot 1) arrived the following evening. She’s lovely, perhaps too good for my brother if anything. The next morning he went into town to get a haircut, while she and I had a chat. Without my prompting she brought up Brexit, saying how upset she was with the result, unlike my brother. She works as a podiatrist and gets a huge amount of satisfaction from her job but is frustrated by cuts to the NHS and feels it’s only a matter of time before the whole thing is privatised.

On Thursday I spent some time in Cambridge and picked up about a dozen language-related books from charity shops. My favourite is The Cambridge Encyclopedia of Language by David Crystal, an impressive tome that hasn’t lost its relevance despite being thirty years old. The next day, Good Friday, I caught up with my university friend and his French girlfriend in Camden in London. Camden Market is really a series of massive alternative markets that would be right up my street if they weren’t quite so packed with people. In the past I used to go there for a short time if I just wanted a quick visual hit. I’d like to go back there but will try and avoid doing so on a bank holiday again. I took the train back to Cambridge at about four; any later I’d have needed to get a taxi home from either Cambridge or Huntingdon, and I don’t feel I can afford that kind of expense at the moment. (My brother and his girlfriend like to eat out in situations where I wouldn’t dream of it, and the cost of that did add up for me.)

Most of the time I just spent in St Ives with my brother and his girlfriend. Sometimes I’d go for a walk to get out of their hair. I realised how unused I am to spending whole days with other people, even people I get on with. My brother is very happy and, outwardly at least, has bucketloads of self-confidence. I’m hardly immune to swearing but he swears a lot, and makes a lot of black-and-white sweeping statements that could make him seem a bit of a dick to someone who didn’t know him better. (I’m guessing he tones his brashness down among people he doesn’t know.) He’s has quite conversative views on a lot of subjects, most notably drugs. So we’re very different people. Maybe being so different, and inhabiting two very different worlds since we both left home in 1998, has helped us to get on well. I look at my cousin in Wellington and her three younger sisters; the four of them have gone down similar paths: they’ve all got degrees from Canterbury, they all got married between the ages of 27 and 30, they’ve all had successful careers, two of them in finance, two of them in law. And they see plenty of each other. But after decades of competition in just about every aspect of their lives, they’re not exactly the best of friends now. It also helps that my brother’s and my sense of humour overlap quite a bit.

Talking about living in a different world, we turned up at my aunt’s house in Earith on Saturday morning. It was half-ten. She was half-cut. I don’t know how much she’d already had to drink but she was only semi-coherent. She gradually sobered up, then gave us all a glass of quite expensive Marlborough riesling. It’s puzzling why she spends twelve quid on a bottle of wine when she only drinks it for the alcohol content. Her garden looked lovely as it always has done. She then showed us her new sporty black Audi A7 with a three-litre engine that she only uses to go up and down the road in. She said, “Why can’t I have fun?” but to my mind that car is an obscene waste of money. I get on fine with my aunt; she isn’t a bad person (not now she isn’t, anyway in her mother’s final years she was positively evil) but she’s never had any purpose in life and never listens to anyone but herself on any subject that even vaguely matters. My aunt married into the RAF at a young age, and since then everything she’s done in her life has purely been play. She conveniently shipped her kids (work!) off to boarding school when they were eight. She’s got no concept of actually having to earn money to make ends meet and mocks people who have “boring” jobs that pay the bills. Even now she gets her husband’s healthy pension. He sadly died of lung cancer in 2002; he never smoked but she smoked like a chimney until e-cigarettes came along. This total lack of purpose has contributed to her drink problems, which were in full swing even when my uncle was still alive, and other mental health problems including multiple suicide attempts. In October she’ll turn 70. She said that when she lived in Italy she gave a few English lessons and described them as “money for old rope”. (I don’t think it was just money either. I think she got the odd shag chucked in.) She probably thought my attempt to make a living from lessons was ridiculous. When we got back to St Ives we tried to guess how much her Audi cost and were open-mouthed when we saw prices ranging from £48,000 to £62,000. I’d guessed something in the low forties, which would have still been vastly more than my aunt has earned in her entire life.

Stansted is a bit of a nightmare these days; it’s expanded so much from how I remember it. I got back here at 11:30 on Sunday night and that felt pretty good. This is the closest place I have to home.

Wow, a snap election. I didn’t see that coming. They don’t quite do snap elections in the UK like they used to in New Zealand.

Amazement

I’ve just read that the extremely talented Sergio García has won the Masters. I don’t really follow golf anymore (do I properly follow any sport anymore?) but I certainly used to, and García has always struck me as being a thoroughly nice guy who for whatever reason (probably bad luck, mostly) hasn’t quite managed to take home a major. Until now, at the age of 37. Good on him. I saw that he won in a play-off. In a way, golf play-offs amaze me. Whenever I’ve tried to play golf I’ve generally lurched from one tree to the next, with the occasional air shot thrown in for good measure. A major tournament comprises four rounds, each of which involves over four miles of golfage. So two players the two best players – completing a major in the exact same number of shots seems extraordinarily unlikely, a bit like two work colleagues with pedometers who discover they’ve both taken precisely 1472 steps to walk to work.

Just occasionally I see something or read something that has the potential to be amazing, and in the last couple of days I’ve been watching YouTube videos on pronunciation by Adrian Underhill who is truly fantastic. The videos are mostly aimed at teachers. His focus is on the physical processes that go on in your mouth to produce the various sounds. By developing awareness of those processes, you can make your students aware of those processes, and as he puts it, free them from the grip of their mother tongue. From a very early age you’re locked in to a framework of possible sounds; Underhill’s method helps students (and teachers) escape that. It’s really powerful stuff.

I’m flying to London later today. It’s a 2¾-hour flight, about half the distance between LA and Boston. Again that amazes me, because of all the countries you fly over between Romania and the UK, even though the map doesn’t lie. Before the flight I’ve got a two-hour Skype lesson. On pronunciation. So I guess I should pack.

If all goes to plan, my brother and his girlfriend will come to St Ives tomorrow so I’ll spend some time with them. As promised, here are a few photos of Timișoara that I took the weekend before last. I hope you’ll agree that Timișoara is pretty damn amazing. And for me, it’s home.

A good day (need more of them)

All three of yesterday’s lessons did materalise, and all in all it was a bloody good day. Going to another part of the city, or strictly speaking a suburb just outside the boundaries of the city, makes the whole experience that little bit more interesting. To get to Matei’s place I hop on the M14 bus (I now know definitely not to get on the 14, without the M, that comes just a few minutes before) and get off 20-odd minutes later at a stop called Fropin, just outside a Lidl supermarket. From there I walk through a new and quite visually pleasing development before turning right onto Strada Platinei. (The street on the left is Strada Superba. Superb.)

Matei and I spent a large part of yesterday’s lesson talking about our families. He’s an only child, and was surprised that anyone could have as big a family as my mum. (She’s one of seven, her mother was one of six, and her father was one of eight. Yeah, Irish Catholic.) I learnt that godparents are a far bigger deal in the Romanian Orthodox church than they were for me. Matei did much better this time on Millionaire. I managed to persuade him to phone his taxi driver friend rather than lock in the answer “tab” for “What is another word for a taxi?” This time he trusted his friend. His general knowledge is pretty damn good though. He walked away with £32,000 having made use of all his lifelines; he finally came unstuck on the £125,000 question when he thought Hamilton was the capital of New Zealand.

My main concern right now is that I’ll be hit massively for tax while I’m here. For a minute I thought I might be able to avoid tax entirely, but there are only two things certain in life…

I said I’d post some photos but it’s past my bedtime. Next time I promise. And I see it was six months today that I lay on my bed in the hotel here in Timișoara after my two-day train trip and thought, wow, I’m actually in Romania now, how cool is this?

Wax off

I’ve got three lessons scheduled for tomorrow. That’s exciting. If they all materalise, that’ll be a new record. (That sentence uses the first conditional.) If I had three lessons every day, five days a week (or even six heck, I enjoy it), things wouldn’t be far off perfect. (That sentence uses the second conditional. See, I’m getting good at this grammar stuff now.) I’m enjoying the lifestyle, but the more work I get the more I’ll feel I’m somebody here, and the less I’ll have to worry about money.

My second lesson with Matei (the young boy) went pretty well yesterday. We played Who Wants to Be a Millionaire? as a warm-up. I wrote out each question and the four possible answers on a small whiteboard. He was quite excited by the vast sums of fake money he could win. He started very well but came a cropper on the £8000 question. I asked him who Bart’s father was in the Simpsons (which I knew he’d probably be too young for): was it Homer, Harry, Hugo or Horia? He said Harry, but I convinced him to use a lifeline. He phoned a friend (me) who gave him the correct answer. But he didn’t trust his friend and still went for Harry, so he ended up with just a thousand fake pounds. After the lesson I spoke to Matei’s dad (who was in Bucharest) on the phone. He said he’ll invite me over for a barbecue and a whisky (!) some time. He also texted me on the morning of the lesson to say that Matei was excited to be seeing me again. If so, that’s great. I was worried for a minute that he was just being pushed into extra English lessons by his parents.

I saw the ENT specialist on Monday. He spoke good English and after about 30 seconds, that was the language we spoke. He took a good look in and around my nose. My septum is out of joint but not enough to cause the amount of blockage I get in my left nostril. He said that the cause of the blockage is likely to be swollen turbinates, air passages that until Monday I didn’t know I had. He then looked at my ears which were chock-full of wax. My left ear in particular was packed with dark brown wax, verging on black, and the extraction it was past the point where you could use a syringe was really quite painful. He’s given me some spray and a lozenge which I expect will provide a temporary solution but I need something far more longer-lasting.

I’ll be seeing Matei again tomorrow. I’ve found a way of reducing a whole bunch of photos all at once, so I’ll post some next time.

My first lesson with a kid

As I wrote that last post my sinus pain worsened and morphed into a full-blown attack, just like I had in 2008. The pain was excruciating and I didn’t properly recover until the evening when I had two lessons. Just as well I was free until then. I haven’t had any further attacks since then, but Monday’s appointment with the ENT specialist can’t come soon enough.

Yesterday I had my first ever lesson with a kid. Yes it was a nine-year-old boy (actually he turns nine in a couple of weeks). His parents aren’t short of a bob or two, that much was obvious, although it was his grandmother who greeted me at the doorstep. The boy’s room was remarkably tidy. He showed me his Playstation games and told me all the countries he’d already been do. He told me all about London and Madame Tussauds. Sometimes he would speak English – his English wasn’t bad – and other times Romanian, which wasn’t easy for me because he flitted between subjects at will, as kids of that age do, so I was unable to “tune in” to a subject. There were two amusing moments. The first was when he said I was a bit young to have white hair. The second was when he proudly declared that he had a knife. In fact he had several knives including old army knives and a very beautiful Arab dagger. I survived the two hours without a scratch, and so did he, but it was really just a glorified chat. I’ve got two more lessons coming up next week, and keeping a young kid awake for that length of time while actually teaching him something will be a challenge. I’m up for it though.

My biggest challenge yesterday was getting to the place. Dumbrăvița is officially outside Timișoara, although it’s basically just a northern suburb of the city. The boy’s dad told me to take the M11 bus, but it was obvious to me that I needed the M14 instead. I jumped on a bus numbered 14 outside Iulius Mall, not knowing what the M (or lack of one) meant. The bus went the right way but came to the end of the line two stops before the stop I needed, so I had quite a walk. Trying to read a map on my phone is no easy task and something is draining the battery. By the time I got there, my battery was well into the red. I saw the return bus (with an M on it!) go by, and instead of waiting an age for the next one I walked home. It took me over an hour. As always it was interesting to visit a new part of town.

I read an article recently about the ten most loved and ten most hated jobs in America according to a 2014 survey. Nine of the top ten jobs either (a) created a product (and by that I mean a real, tangible product, not a so-called financial product), (b) helped people, or (c) engaged the senses, or some combination of the three. The odd one out was financial services sales agents, in ninth place, and I guess some people do just love making money. The rest included firefighters, teachers, special needs teachers, artists and even the clergy. Most of the bottom ten jobs did none of those things and instead involved staring at a screen. So many office jobs these days are soul-destroying, and so many companies try to motivate their employees by using team-building sessions or turning the whole experience into a game (let’s see who can get the most gold points this month!).

P.S. Have you always been able to play Pac-Man on Google Maps or is it a new thing?