Someone please pull the plug

Tonight’s tennis was cancelled because the courts were wet following overnight rain; my next outing won’t be until March. I suggest to my singles opponent that we go out for a beer at some point, and he called a friend who (after he’d been to church) picked us up, and in the end there were six of us (and a dog) who went to a bar that served Hungarian beer, including an older couple who joined later. We all needed our Covid certificates. Everybody was really nice, but we were there for what seemed an eternity. Almost two whole football matches played out on the TV, and there was a gap in between. (Poli Timișoara scored twice in the last ten minutes to come back and beat Steaua Bucharest 2-1, then the depressingly rich Paris Saint-Germain also came from behind to beat Saint-Etienne 3-1. I’ve been to Saint-Etienne.) I hit the social wall pretty damn fast in my own language, and in Romanian that happens even sooner. Some interesting conversation, though. One woman said that the five glass monstrosities next to Piața 700 are the ugliest buildings in Timișoara, and it’s hard to disagree with that. One of the guys, the driver, smoked a pipe. The dog really got off on the nicotine. The driver had three beers before getting back in the driver’s seat; the limit in Romania is nil.

We’ve now got the Omicron coronavirus variant to contend with. It appears to be a different beast to anything we’ve seen so far, with dozens of changes to the shape of its spike protein. We can be sure that it’s more transmissible than the previous versions including Delta, but we don’t yet know if it makes people more sick. The WHO skipped over two Greek letters (Nu, because calling the super-scary new variant the Nu variant would have been slightly ridiculous, and Xi, which would have been hilarious but they couldn’t call it that).

My aunt, who visited Timișoara after my brother’s wedding, and whom I’ve always had a lot of time for, has now ventured deep into the rabbit hole of Facebook, sharing any anti-Jacinda material she can get her hands on. Last week she sent my parents a video of a woman’s crazed rant about the supposed damage to the country’s economy that the Covid restrictions are doing. I have no problem with the rant itself. The woman is entitled to her views, even if they’re crazy. The problem is that the bile she spouts is spread throughout her band of followers (like my aunt), people who agree with her already, and they think it’s great. She isn’t changing anyone’s opinion. All she’s doing is making people’s opinions more entrenched, and that’s dangerous. My aunt has sent my parents several Facebook links along the same lines. Dad emailed me to say that Mum might be slowly disappearing down the rabbit hole too. None of this stuff is unique to the political right; I remember “Fuck John Key!” circulating when I lived over there. This morning I listened to part of Kim Hill’s programme where a woman (who was brought up in China) explained why we still don’t know whether the coronavirus arose zoonotically or if it escaped from a lab. She then said that she was lambasted on both sides for her balanced views, and her personal safety was threatened on social media. Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, TikBloodyTok, I wish we could nuke the whole lot.

Yesterday I tried a new fruit for the first time. I bought some scorușe from the market. They’re soft, brown, and a bit smaller than a golf ball. They taste a bit like pears, but with some extra tang, and their texture is mushier. They’d probably go well in a pie. I might make a pie with quinces and scorușe and see what happens.

Friday was a crappy day. We had awful weather, and I had a terrible headache which left me sapped of energy even when the pain had subsided.

I watched the first episode of Squid Game yesterday. Whoa. Not sure I want to watch another.

We all need a lift

I had a new and interesting discussion topic in this morning’s lesson: golf. My student lived and worked in the UK and still does a lot of business with corporate Brits. Football is their biggest small-talk topic; golf is number two. It’s amazing quite how much jargon there is in the golf world, and how many normal everyday English words take on a different, specific meaning on the course: club, drive, rough, bunker, eagle, and so on. Oh, and bogey. The sport is almost non-existent in Romania, and his knowledge of the game was unsurprisingly similar. We happened to talk about this as Mum was coming to the end of a four-round golf marathon. I suspect she’ll tell me how it all finished up when we talk tomorrow.

I had a look at another flat on Monday. It was in the same block – the delightfully named U4 – as the two apartments I viewed last Friday, but you access it via a different entrance. Just like the place I owned in New Zealand, this flat is on two floors – but unlike the Wellington flat which took up the bottom two storeys, this place is on the fourth and fifth floors, and the lack of a lift is a deal-breaker for me. Not for me exactly – I’d manage – but when you’re trying to run a business, liftlessness is a serious minus. What a shame, because this spacious apartment otherwise had a lot to recommend it. There were balconies on both floors. Everything looked much sturdier than I’d seen in previous viewings. The build quality seemed to be there. I’ll have to keep looking.

Poker. Another tournament win yesterday, my third in eleven days. It’s been feast or famine this month, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Three wins and little else besides, and you’ll do much better than a string of 7ths and 11ths and 16ths, which is more the norm for me. This latest win came in no-limit single draw, and I was extremely lucky to reach the final table, let alone run out the winner. I played four tournaments in all yesterday, including an attempt at pot-limit five-card draw (high), which came to a screeching halt when I ran my pat queen-high straight into a pat threes full. I spent some time on Tuesday working out an equivalence between very strong hands in badugi, five-card draw and deuce-to-seven lowball; in big-bet draw games, it’s vital to know just how strong – probabilistically – your hand actually is. I made $62 overall yesterday; my bankroll is now up to $1194.

My favourite album right now is the one Romanian folk-rock band Celelalte Cuvinte (which means “the other words”) put out in 1987. Listen to it here.

Tennis at various levels

It’s been a beautiful cloudless Sunday in Timișoara. I met the British teacher guy in town, where it was packed. The police were trying to enforce mask wearing. We sat outside at a restaurant in Piața Unirii. I only had a beer – I’d already eaten – while he had a sizeable beef salad.

Yesterday I played tennis with that same guy. This time the games and sets came thick and fast, even though we had some long rallies, and from my perspective we finished up at 2-6 6-2 6-2 2-2. In the first set I really struggled on my serve and didn’t come close to winning any of my service games. When your serve isn’t functioning, the rest of your game can often fall apart too, and that’s sort of what happened. Also my opponent was playing well; when he’s in the zone there isn’t an awful lot I can do, serve or no serve. I just have to try and weather the storm. I did bounce back and he started to make more mistakes. An interesting moment came on my opponent’s serve at 0-4 and 15-30 in the third set. He whammed down an ace out of nowhere, and that gave him a visible confidence boost. I did however take out the set on my fourth opportunity – a real bruiser of a final point to conclude the longest game of the day.

A world away from Parcul Rozelor where we played yesterday, there have been two good developments in professional tennis. First, Chinese player Peng Shuai. Her disappearance, after she accused the ex-vice-premier of sexually assaulting her, has been deeply troubling. In a breath of fresh air, players (current and former) and the tennis organisations have spoken out against China. The ATP and WTA have threatened to pull their (highly lucrative) tournaments out of China. The second item of good tennis news came when the Australian Open organisers said in no uncertain terms that it’s no jab, no play, no matter what your ranking is or how many titles you own. Things might get interesting then for Djoković who holds nine Australian Open titles – he’s unvaxed as yet, as far as I know.

When I spoke to my brother yesterday he had a cold. That’s such a rarity for him (unlike me), but there are so many bugs going round in the UK at the moment.

I had four of the most uninspiring poker tournaments I could imagine last night. Got absolutely nowhere in any of them. I shouldn’t complain too much after my two recent wins. My bankroll is $1132. Tennis will soon pack up for the winter and I’ll have less work over Christmas, so I’ll probably get to increase my volume a bit.

Yesterday I read an article about Wellington’s many chairlifts that carry people up hillsides to their (often very expensive) homes. The lifts themselves cost a bomb to install and maintain. They’re a visible part of the landscape around Oriental Bay. Just seeing an article about Wellington did make me slightly homesick (or something-sick; nowhere counts as home for me).

The benefits (perhaps) of big sport

I’ve got tennis this afternoon, straight after my lesson with the young couple. It’ll probably be singles again with that super-fit guy. We chatted after last weekend’s game, and he attributed his fitness in part to growing up (and going to school) under communism in the Nadia Comăneci era. Sport was a top priority then, as it simply wasn’t when I grew up in the UK, and isn’t now in 21st-century Romania. Sure, we all did gymnastics and swimming and team sports, but unless you were one of the best at football or cricket, we were pretty much going through the motions. I know I was. We certainly didn’t have scouts visiting schools to eye up the best young talent, as they did in Romania. I was, however, exposed to a higher-priority regime when I spent those six months in New Zealand as a nine-year-old. There were inter-school tennis competitions, inter-school athletics competitions, and cross-country runs. I participated in all of that and hated the lot, even tennis, a sport that I otherwise liked.

I saw two more flats yesterday, both in the same block in the Fabric area, which is to the east of where I live now. The block was designated U4, as in “U4 me”, but I don’t think those places were quite for me. In Romanian, U4 is pronounced “ooh patru“. They weren’t bad apartments at all, but do I know what I’m taking on here? I left feeling more confused than anything.

After my Moderna booster, I felt fine for the rest of the day, but at night I got the shivers and slept no more than three or four hours. The next day I felt a bit tired and groggy, but soon I was back to normal. Some short-term grogginess seemed a small price to pay for the level of protection that the extra jab should give me, especially seeing that I’m in Romania where getting a severe case of Covid is a riskier proposition than it would be in New Zealand, for instance.

Mum and Dad missed out on seeing their one-in-800-year near-total eclipse of a blood-red moon. It clouded over at just the wrong time. I had a chat to them this morning. All is well there, although they have taken on a pretty big project with their new house. I also spoke to my brother, who was on his own – my sister-in-law was attending a conference in Liverpool.

Moderna man

I was up bright and early yesterday for my 8am booster dose. I got it done in some nearby businessy building on the other side of the railway tracks which goes by the rather obscene-sounding name of Incuboxx. The nice lady at the desk asked me if I took any medication. I told her about the pills I take for depression, and then she asked me if I was anxious about getting the injection. Oh no, I said. Everything is în regulă. I got the Moderna jab. I expected it would be the half-sized booster dose, but no, I got the full shot because I’d previously had Astra Zeneca instead of an mRNA vaccine. This surprised me, and googling tells me nothing about different-sized third-dose Moderna shots depending on what you got for your previous two doses, so it’s possible it was a mistake and I got twice as much vaccine as I should have. I felt fine the rest of the day, but last night I had chills combined with a (probably unrelated) headache, and I slept for only three hours or so. I had to drag myself out of bed in time for my 8am lesson.

I didn’t know much about Moderna, but there’s a lot to like about it. For a third dose, it probably offers you more protection against severe disease than Pfizer, and almost certainly does better than Astra Zeneca or Johnson & Johnson. (All four of these vaccines are available in Romania. In New Zealand, you can get whatever you like as long as it’s Pfizer.) The Moderna company is based in Cambridge, Massachusetts, where I spent a fantastic day six years ago, and it’s a lot smaller than Pfizer; vaccines are literally all Moderna does. Dolly Parton partly funded the Moderna vaccine, and here’s the video of her singing “vaccine” to the tune of Jolene and then getting the jab. Seriously, who doesn’t love Dolly Parton? The name of Moderna’s vaccine is also way cooler than Pfizer’s. The Pfizer jab goes under the brand name Comirnaty, and what sort of name is that for something that can literally save your life? It starts off fine (Com…) but then turns into total mneh. It’s not even obvious how to pronounce Comirnaty – the –aty ending (as opposed to the extremely common –ity) just isn’t a thing in English, outside words where the a is part of a vowel combination, as in meaty or throaty. Moderna’s vaccine, on the other hand, is called Spikevax, a proper badass name. Finally, when so many people have had Pfizer (if they’ve been jabbed at all), getting something different is a talking point.

Of course all of the above, with the exception of the first point (and even that is debatable), is basically a joke. Get whatever goddamn vaccine you can.

Because my jab was nice and early, I was able to call my parents and still be in time to play three tournaments. And guess what, I had another win, this time in the no-limit single draw. Apart from the speed wobbles I suffered in the middle of the tournament, which could easily have led to my elimination, I thought I played good, aggressive poker, and made more moves than I normally do. I didn’t play with fear, and best of all I had fun. I made $52 on the morning; my bankroll is now $1147.

Trying to keep up

I had seven lessons scheduled for Thursday. That would have been a record, but by the Romanian law of low averages it was pretty unlikely that they’d all actually happen. In the end, only four did. The guy who probably didn’t have Covid cancelled, then the new woman cancelled because she’d had a fight with her boyfriend, then I got a message from the twelve-year-old girl’s mum to say that she was ill. In the final case I had no complaints.

Saturday morning was cold, with thick fog. I went to the market in Mehala, which isn’t a million miles from that house I’d looked at the previous day, but didn’t buy anything. When I came back I had my lesson with the young couple, which went fine. I then watched an episode of Black Mirror. Hang the DJ, season four, episode four. I nearly didn’t watch it because I knew it was all about relationships, something I find ever so slightly triggering, but it was great episode and I’m glad I watched it.

After Black Mirror it was time for some poker. A fixed-limit badugi tournament with a $5.50 buy-in and 96 entries. I haven’t run well in that tournament in general, and on multiple occasions I had one foot out of the exit door. But I kept surviving, and when we got down to six players, all my Christmases came at once. I amassed a big stack which I never relinquished, and although we had a protracted short-handed battle, I was able to run out the winner for a profit of $90 in a little under four hours. What a surprise that was. It was my first win in 90 tournaments – that sounds bad, but in the intervening period I had four second places and two thirds. Yesterday, normal service resumed – three tournaments in which I got precisely nowhere. My bankroll is now $1096.

I’ve been listening to End of the Line by the Traveling Wilburys. (When I was younger, I imagined it was Wilberries, a kind of fruit. It’s only one letter away from those wimberries that I picked over the summer.) It’s a great song, and one that reminds me of the simple Twizel house we lived in on Princes Street in Temuka in the winter of ’89, before moving to a place on Richard Pearse Drive. We had no TV, and made do with the radio that was tuned to either 93 Gold or Radio Caroline. We always got the results from races eight, nine and ten. The scratchings and quinellas and trifectas. Racing seemed a big part of Kiwi life back then. I’m pretty sure one of the bedrooms had a waterbed, which were all the rage in the late eighties over there. There was always the pungent smell of chimney smoke, which we never had in the UK.

I played tennis again yesterday. Once again it was singles with the guy of nearly sixty who is like the Duracell bunny. How does he never get tired? I won the first two games, then he won the next three. I edged back in front, and on his serve at 4-5 down, he led 30-0 but I levelled the game at 30-all. The next point was an exhausting long rally, which I won to bring up set point, but I hit long on both the next two points and he dominated the rest of the set. I think that long point ultimately cost me. I was soon in a deep hole at 5-7, 1-4, having lost seven games out of eight. I was struggling physically while he was as fresh as a daisy. I also couldn’t win the important points. He had a killer shot to my backhand corner that I found hard to combat, and he saved plenty of game points with it. Despite the fatigue and sweat, I clung on, and reached 4-4. At 30-all in the next game, I had him pinned to both sidelines before eventually winning the point ten shots after I thought I’d won it. But he played the next three points as if nothing had happened, winning them all. Quite extraordinary. He led 30-0 in game ten to move within two points from victory, but I won the next four points to break him. At 5-5 I held serve from 15-40, but then he held to love to force a tie-break. I won the shoot-out 7-4 and we finished all square, but I was left wondering how somebody of that age could be so fit. I saw that sometimes with the trip leaders on the day tramps I did around Wellington. Is it all in the genes?

Here are some pictures of abandoned Timișoara. There are ex-swimming pools dotted around the city. If you look closely you can see the name of Morărit CILT, an old flour mill.

A sunny afternoon along by the Bega

Step inside (and back in time)

Well on Friday morning I had a look at a house in the picturesque Mehala district. An actual house this time, not an apartment, and on 860 m² of land (just over a fifth of an acre). A man in his mid-fifties (maybe; in Romania it’s often hard to tell) with no more than half a dozen teeth and a small yappy dog showed me around. It was going for €135,000 (NZ$220,000), which is right at the limit for me. He told me the place was built in 1968; I would have guessed earlier. An old lady had lived there, perhaps since ’68. The furniture certainly didn’t look any newer than that. I had a short but fascinating tour of a traditional simple Romanian house with all its religious artwork and flowery embroidered decorations. “Where’s the bathroom?” I asked, expecting a simple “It’s just here”, but instead I got “There isn’t one.” In fact there was no running water inside at all. He then showed me outside, where there was a tap, a shed which I think contained a long drop, a lot of grapevines and plenty of overgrown grass. The place was beautiful in its own way but getting it plumbed and generally into shape would have needed time and money beyond anything I could face. I thanked the man, explaining that I was an English teacher, and apologising for my rudimentary Romanian. I’m probably better off with an apartment, but the modern ones tend to have an all-in-one kitchen and living room, which is a non-starter for me. I have to keep persevering. Here are some photos that I took of the place.

I had a low-level argument with Mum this morning. (My parents are fine, by the way.) She said that the vaccination rate in and around Geraldine was poor, because of all the weed smokers and what have you. No it isn’t, Mum. I’ve seen the map with the figures, so stop making false assumptions that suit your Jacinda-is-bad agenda! You’re at 90% first dose and 80% second dose, which is pretty damn impressive when you consider that there’s currently no virus on the whole of the South Island. Sure, when you explore the map, there are pockets of Northland and the West Coast where take-up isn’t great, but even then the disparities aren’t as stark as in the US.

In the early hours of Thursday morning two people were killed in a fire at a Covid hospital, Romania’s fourth of the pandemic. This country, which still has no functioning government as far as I know, is a disaster zone right now. Thankfully, case numbers are coming down fast, and (anecdotally) I’m not hearing as many ambulances as I was a month ago. By Christmas the pressure on hospitals should have eased, but with such low vaccination rates I wouldn’t be at all surprised to see a new spike in early 2022.

Last Sunday there was a protest outside the City Hall. A lot of noise for only a hundred or so people. There was a large banner saying that vaccines, masks and social distancing were against God’s law. Please, make it stop. (Religion is to blame for many thousands of Romanian deaths.)

After tennis last Sunday, my sister-in-law sent me a message, asking if I could help with her sister’s boyfriend’s maths problem. It was more of a civil engineering or surveying problem, with co-ordinates and degrees. I spent a chunk of Monday on it, and sent her back five scanned pages of pencil. I actually quite enjoyed doing some maths for change. I couldn’t remember the last time I had to calculate a sin or a cos.

Next time I’ll post some pictures of abandoned Timișoara.

Rooted to the spot

I’ve just booked my booster dose of the vaccine, which I’ll get in ten days’ time, precisely 182 days after I had my second dose. (You have to wait at least 180.) I clearly remember the sunny March morning when I got my first jab. It was Astra Zeneca, concocted by the good, not-profit-making guys from Oxford. I came out of there brimming with optimism. A shaft of light at the end of the tunnel. We’ll get over this, and soon. At that stage there was Alpha but not the super-transmissible Delta, and little did I know that my position – taking the sodding jab – was a minority one in the country I happened to be living in. By May, when I got my second dose, the picture was far darker. Last week I had three lessons with a girl who had just turned twelve and become eligible for the vaccine. On Monday she proudly displayed her arm to me over Skype. Any side effects? No, just a slightly sore arm, like the vast majority of people. That was great to see.

Yesterday I met up with the English couple in Dumbrăvița. I took my old bike – the one that had been nicked – and it was painfully slow going. The area they live in is only half-built and the roads are still unsealed (I use the Kiwi word there), so it was all muddy after the heavy rain we’d had. After being practically attacked by their large one-year-old mongrel dog with gangly legs, we chatted for a bit, and the guy played me some of Gnossienne on his fancy touch-sensitive keyboard with full-sized keys. He followed that up with a few bars of Genesis’s utterly mad über-prog-rock tune Firth of Fifth. On paper, it looked like a chaotic mess of key and time signature changes. He said he’d passed all eight piano grades as an adult. Then we went to a restaurant called La Ioji (the first letter of Ioji is an i, not an l) where we sat outside and talked. I had ciorbă, a thick soup, and a beer.

From there I went home (a struggle) and almost immediately went to tennis. It was singles against that same guy, and it didn’t go well for me at all, for the simple reason that my footwear was totally inadequate for the slippery surface, so I could hardly move without slipping and sliding all over the place. We’d booked the court for two hours. To begin with we just rallied, and I was content to do this for as long as possible. Then, the inevitable. “Let’s play a game.” But you know I can’t move, right? I eked out the first set 6-4 on my fifth set point, and extended my winning run to five games as I went 2-0 up in the second. From 3-1 though, I lost seven games on the spin, including a long game which gave him the second set. I was paralysed out there. When you’re almost rooted to the spot, the rest of your game suffers too. When time ran out, I was one game from defeat, at 6-4 3-6 2-5.

Then it was online poker time. I played five low buy-in tournaments with very little joy, although the mix of different games made life interesting. My bankroll is currently $1008. Two more tourneys in store for later today.

Lack of promotion

That 21-year-old has managed to get Covid, or so he said, so neither of this week’s scheduled lessons have happened. Covid does certainly provide people with an excuse, if they really just don’t fancy it for whatever reason. For now, though, I’ll trust him.

My cold didn’t last long, by my standards. Last weekend I was still suffering, so I didn’t play tennis. Instead I played a few poker tournaments from the micro buy-in series. The last of them was a marathon: I went 5¾ hours in the single draw, hanging on and hanging on and for a fleeting few minutes I thought, heck I could win this thing, get my name on the trophy (wouldn’t that be nice?) before ultimately finishing 17th out of 1300-odd entrants. I didn’t make much money – so much of the money is handed out to the top three or four, even in a big-field tournament. My bankroll is $1015. This weekend there’s another series taking place – it’s the brainchild of Mason Pye, a Twitch streamer, and includes anything but no-limit hold ’em. My kind of series. We’ve got a wet weekend in store – perfect for poker.

Last night I had a Zoom call with my friend from university. He’d just been to Manchester and Blackpool for his birthday. We talked about the contrast between visitor-friendly Manchester (a city I’ve never ever been to) and his home city of Birmingham, which does little if anything to promote itself. We’re talking Romanian levels of promotion here. Even Liverpool, which I visited in 1998, does a much better job there. He talked about Lord of the Rings, so much of which is Birmingham-based, and how the city completely failed – refused – to take advantage of the film series that came out in the early 2000s. (When I moved to New Zealand at that time, you couldn’t move for Lord of the Rings stuff. I flew out on a 747 which had been totally Middle-Earthed up.) My friend told me the alarming news that his 40-year-old sister had been diagnosed with breast cancer, but should be OK. What a shock though.

It’s been an unusually warm and windy Thursday in Timișoara. A whopping 23 degrees, with a strong breeze – a southerly, and I’m guessing force 6 on the Beaufort scale. Seeing the autumn leaves swirl in a whirlwind is quite beautiful.