A brief (but welcome) change of scenery

On Sunday morning I still didn’t feel wonderful. After the lesson I joined my students for a drink at Porto Arte, a bar by the Bega, five minutes’ walk from here. After sitting there for nearly two hours, I was prepared to go home. But then they asked me if I wanted to go to Herneacova, a place I’d heard of but knew nothing about and wouldn’t have been able to locate on a map. I said yes but my head was in a spin: I hadn’t mentally paced myself for spending who knows how many extra hours with people. Just how far away is this place? I was also dehydrated. If I hadn’t managed to get a bottle of water at Recaș, I’d have been really struggling. Herneacova is a fairly poor but typically picturesque Romanian village, while two kilometres outside the village is an arena which holds international equestrian events, and a domain (in New Zealand terminology) which is popular with families. The highlight, apart from the few horses, was probably watching somebody’s radio-controlled car being chased by a small dog. It was a beautiful dayit felt like springand when I did get home I was very glad that I’d accepted their invitation and got out of the city.

I guessed there were a million Johns or variations thereof who were celebrating their saint’s day on Sunday, but the number was actually two million, or one in ten Romanians. That day really marked the end of the festive season; yesterday, after being a fixture in the square for 5½ weeks, the Christmas market sheds were dismantled.

I now realise that teaching kids can be both rewarding and frustrating in equal measure. My first lessons with those two new kids yesterday were definitely both in the latter category. I ran out of material both times, for completely different reasons, and because I wasn’t at home I didn’t have any emergency supplies. The 13-year-old girl (90 minutes with her) was even better than I’d anticipated, so we she got through everything (a lesson on London, where she’d like to go) in double-quick time without her really being challenged. The 10-year-old boy was mostly unenthusiastic and didn’t really want to speak English, but I actually think he’ll be easier to teach in the long run, because I already have material I can use with him. With her, I’ve got to come up with stuff that’s at an upper-intermediate level and is age-appropriate and doesn’t bore her: although she seems motivated to learn, that’s no easy task.

My students, or their parents, are often in a different financial league from your average Ion or Ioana. It’s extremely noticeable in my lessons with the kids in Dumbrăvița, just as it was in Auckland all those years ago when I did a spot of maths tuition, often in suburbs like Remuera. Last night my student wouldn’t shut up about both her and her husband’s German cars. I had a much more interesting discussion of cars with a student last week: the Yugo, the Trabant (with its two-stroke engine), and the various incarnations of the Dacia, such as this hopelessly unreliable one (the Lăstun, which means “housemartin”) with a 500 cc engine, which was built in a factory right here in Timișoara. It’s sporting a Ceaușescu-era Timiș County number plate.

My Romanian is still in need of some massive improvement. More on that next time.

Inevitable

It was going to happen eventually, wasn’t it? The last few days I’ve been feeling a bit down. Not depressed as such, but just this general bleeugh feeling. I’m sure I’d be fine now if I’d managed to get away for a day or two and spend several hours reading a book on a train, but my illness put paid to that. Last year Timișoara was all new and fun and mad and exciting; it hasn’t stopped being all kinds of awesome, but it’s still a biggish city that I need to get away from every once in a while to break up the routine. I was thinking that if I’d gone to the UK and endured what would surely have been an absolutely awful Christmas and New Year, I’d probably be fine now too. This morning there was a tell-tale sign that things weren’t right: I had no recollection of having made myself a cup of tea two minutes earlier. That’s how life used to be week in, week out, doing things like grocery shopping and, um, trying to hold down a job, with a similar memory span to a fairly retentive goldfish. The good news is that I’ll soon have a lot more lessons again, and so far there has been a very strong positive correlation between how much work I have and how I feel.

The couple who bought me that hamper won’t be having any lessons until 2nd February. That’s a bugger. But I do now have some new students. A brother and sister (he’s 10, she’s 13) will have their first lessons with me on Monday. They live in Dumbrăvița, five doors down from the ten-year-old boy I started with in October. I’ve also got a new bloke starting on Thursday. Yesterday I had a call from a woman who I really struggled to understand. She talked so quickly and at such a high pitch that she reminded me of when I was a kid and I’d mess around with Dad’s record player, putting one of his 33s or 45s on 78. She seemed to think I knew what she was saying, but I could hardly understand a bloody thing. Cât costă? How much is it? Phew, a question I understand. On that note, I’ve had no choice but to put my prices up. In my first few months here it felt like an inflation-free zone, but in the last six to nine months everything has gone up. The leu has weakened somewhat against the euro, and oil prices have shot up. Just around the corner is a kiosk where they sell shawormas (I’ve seen about five different spellings for shaworma, which is a bit like a kebab). For the last few months I’ve been waiting for them to increase their price of a large shaworma from 11 lei, and finally on Wednesday I saw they’d put them up to 12.

Today is Epiphany, or as they call it here, Boboteaza, which to me is a funny word. Right now there’s a snaking queue of at least 100 people around the cathedral, waiting to get their hands on water that is supposedly even holier than bog-standard holy water. Tomorrow is St John the Baptist’s day, which probably a million Romanians called Ion or Ioan or Ionuț or Ioana will celebrate. People here often celebrate both their birthday and their saint’s day, if they have one. Slightly confusingly, the expression “La Mulți Ani” is used on someone’s birthday, their saint’s day, and for New Year. Just like last year, although this time I was in the middle of a lesson, the local priest and his accomplice dropped in and blessed me and this flat. I gave him 8 lei, up from 6 last year.

My watch strap is broken, and because it’s a Swatch I can’t replace it anywhere in Timișoara. Believe me, I’ve tried. Even the shop that sells Swatches couldn’t do it. When I leave the house without a watch I feel just about naked. I know my phone shows the time in quite large digits, but it doesn’t compare. Yesterday I tried to find a cheap watch to use as a stand-in until I get the Swatch strap replaced, with no luck.

The weather is incredible for this time of year. Our expected high today is 13. And I feel a bit better now.

Space Race

I’m having a slightly frustrating week thanks to all the cancellations I’m getting, but if I’m lucky I’ll still hit the 20-hour mark. These days I seem to have temporary frustrations, and isn’t that great? At the sprightly hour of 7:30 this morning I had a lesson with a beginner who intends to move to Edmonton in Canada next year. It’s a pleasure to work with him, but it’s always interesting getting him to read. What comes out of his mouth is at times independent of what’s on the page. It reminds me of Mum trying to teach my brother to read, or this bit from the Royal Variety Performance a couple of years ago (fast forward to 4:24, or alternatively watch it all  it’s pretty funny).

Last week Octavian, my ten-year-old student, told me that as much as he loved Crazy Rabbits (the board game I made), he’d quite like to play something else next time. That meant I had to make another, probably more complex, game (or buy one, but that would be more expensive and less fun). I had to make something that would stand the test of time. I thought of making a space-themed game, and found a fun-looking spacey board online which was supposed to have 100 spaces but only had 94. It was also watermarked, meaning I’d need to pay a subscription (no thanks) to download the unadulterated version. I painstakingly removed the watermark as best I could using a slightly better (and free) version of Paint, and squeezed in an extra six spaces in such a way that you wouldn’t notice. I numbered the spaces in fives each space represented five light years  and then I had to figure out the mechanics of the game. The goal, I decided, was to be the first to drive all three of your spaceships the 500 light years from start to finish. The skill, such that it exists, is in choosing which ship to move on which turn you have to decide before you roll the dice. Some spaces give you extra turns or get you to draw cards that make good or bad things happen to either you or your opponent. I tested the game on Tuesday with Matei – it was my 51st lesson with him, so the risk that he wouldn’t want to see me again if he hated the game didn’t seem too great. He liked it but found some of the rules a bit counterintuitive (move 25 light years – five spaces – if you roll a four, for instance) and wished we used two dice instead of one. So I added a second die and simplified the rules quite a bit, and played it with Octavian yesterday. Space Race. He seemed to be a fan.

Something has been puzzling me. I followed one of the Cambridge textbooks with my Skype student (ex-student, thankfully), and one section was on travel. It gave a list of the “fifty places you must visit before you die”, of which my parents live in number four, and asked the student to pick his or her must-see places from the list. To my surprise, my ex-student put Dubai at number one. Last week I reached the same section of the book with another student, and once again Dubai was top of her list. Seriously, what is the fuck is going on here? The probability that they’d both choose Dubai at random is 0.04%. All-out nuclear war in the coming year is far more likely than that. I can understand why you might want to work in Dubai for a limited time (to make loads of dirhams), but not everyone goes to Dubai for work, or to visit friends and family who are working there, or even as a stopover to break up the journey between two places that actually have human rights. No, significant numbers of people go to Dubai to go to Dubai, to lurch from one soulless air-conditioned shopping mall to another, and then come home. How bizarre. I mean, I know bits of Timișoara are a bit shit, but at least they’re real shit.

The Christmas market is in full swing, and the pungent but pleasant whiff of mulled wine fills the air. Last night some young women in traditional Romanian dress were singing what I imagine were traditional Romanian Christmas carols.

La mulți ani, România!

I’ve been absolutely bloody hopeless with this blog thing, and for that I apologise. Last week was another busy one for me: 29 hours of teaching, and that was without any at the lollipop-stick-making company. This week I’m looking at 24 or so.

Right now we’re in a middle of a four-day long weekend. Yesterday was St Andrew’s Day; today is Romania’s national day, the 99th anniversary of Romania in its current format. Before the downfall of communism, the national day was celebrated in August instead, for some reason unknown to me because my knowledge of Romanian history is shamefully crap. The parade of military vehicles will start at eleven so I’ll pop down for that. Last year my feet were like ice blocks after standing around in zero degrees, so I might put on an extra pair of socks. Tonight there will be a firework display in the square. I asked one of my students what might be in store for next year’s centenary, and he said possibly an extra tank, and maybe they’ll add a screamer or two to their pyrotechnic arsenal. He said the parades of aging vehicles, which should be in museums, demonstrate what a joke Romania’s military is. I said, yeah, sounds a bit like New Zealand. Some people will be going to Alba Iulia for the day. I visited that city in August. In the middle of the citadel is where the declaration of unity (or whatever they call it) was signed in 1918, so it’s effectively Romania’s Waitangi. Today there will also be protests, timed for maximum visibility.

The Christmas market has just started in the main square, and will run until about 10th January. There will also be two smaller markets in the other squares that weren’t a feature last time around. It’s slightly weird that I’m now talking about last year. Everything is coming around for a second time how did that happen?

The weekend before last, one of my students took me to the winery in Recaș, and we filled bottles of wine straight from the tap. She filled five-litre bottles. I can’t possibly drink those sorts of volumes by myself (although when I lived in France I did just that), so I just filled three two-litre bottles two reds and a white at between 13 and 15 lei a bottle, which is extremely cheap. When I showed the bottles to my brother last weekend on FaceTime, he thought they were hilarious. “Are you sure that one isn’t piss?” But I’ve almost finished the dry red which has been the best wine I’ve had since I arrived here.

I still play Scrabble, or more accurately Words With Friends, on my phone. I’m now leading my cousin by 52 games to 24, with one draw. Against a complete stranger I just played EQUALiZE across two double word squares for 143, my highest-ever score on one turn. I do find Scrabble fascinating from a tactical perspective, and I’m thinking I should take the plunge and actually attempt to play it seriously, which of course means learning those god-awful words.

Testing times

I’ve been struggling a bit with my sinuses today. When I was in one of the electronics shops in the mall, trying to find some ink cartridges that of course they didn’t have, I realised that with all the visual and auditory stimuli (such painful music!) I wouldn’t survive more than five minutes working in an environment like that.

As a private teacher I get through ink on an almost industrial scale. The stuff ain’t cheap. For a long time I didn’t have a printer at all, and would go to one of the many printing shops in the city almost every day, but that became too time-consuming.

It feels funny to say that I’m a teacher, public, private or anything in between. Years ago when I couldn’t decide what I wanted to do, Mum would ask me if I wanted to get into teaching purely as a joke: she knew the answer would be an emphatic no. Seeing the effect that full-time teaching had on Mum for pretty much all of the nineties was enough for me. It was incredibly stressful for her, and on Sunday nights you could cut the atmosphere in the house with a knife. Having a completely dysfunctional head at her school didn’t help. Around the turn of the century the demands on teachers were ramped up yet again with even more assessment (not just for pupils but for teachers too) and an unhealthy obsession with “literacy” and “numeracy” at the expense of making or experimenting or investigating. I thought it was bloody ridiculous that Mum’s eight-year-olds had to learn “literacy”: why does a kid of that age even need to know the word? I still remember reading something one of Mum’s pupils wrote: I like reading and writing, but I don’t like literacy. That said it all. Since Mum left the UK teaching world behind in 2003, things have continued to go backwards. Teachers are now hopelessly underpaid, overworked and undervalued. The people who would make the best teachers are avoiding the profession. Standards of education will inevitably fall regardless of how many double-A-stars kids end up with.

Luckily I don’t teach in a school. Put me in a maths class in front of two dozen or more fifteen-year-old boys as big as me, at least half of whom don’t want to know, and I wouldn’t last long, even before you factor in everything a teacher has to do outside the classroom. The only classroom I teach in, as such, is the one at the lolly-stick company. Last Thursday I had to give both (!) my students a test, as I’m required to do every tenth session. I had to devise the test myself, complete with listening, speaking and reading comprehension components. This was no easy task: creating tests is relatively easy but there’s a lot of skill in making good tests. Unlike the final test, this one had no bearing on whether my students pass the course. I marked the subjective elements of the test fairly generously and they got scores of 65% and 68%. The final test has to have a pass mark of 75% which I think is ridiculously high: I prefer to stretch my students, which you can’t do with that kind of pass mark. I’ll have no choice but to make the final test a bit easier.

Excursion

Yesterday morning I had my usual lesson with a married couple (he the same age as me, she a few years younger), and after the lesson (on the present perfect tense and phrasal verbs, with a handmade game of Taboo chucked in at the end) they invited me to go with them to Lipova. I gratefully accepted. We drove along the same road that I followed six weeks ago with my friends from St Ives. In one of the villages in Timiș, in a scene that’s about as Romanian as you get, we met a man who needed a push to get his totally clapped-out 1980-ish Dacia going. Off it spluttered in a puff of blue smoke that reminded me of the emissions from Mum’s Allegro. Apparently Romania does have an equivalent of a Warrant of Fitness, but sufficient cash will get you the green light. Over the border into Arad county, the road became potholed; our driver did a much better job of avoiding the pits than I did.

In Lipova we visited a beautiful Catholic basilica which had recently been restored. There is also a monastery that pilgrims flock to every September, often from Hungary. There are services in Hungarian and German, as well as Romanian. We had a guided tour of the top floor of the basilica, where our guide explained what the slightly bizarre pictures that had been donated by parishioners actually symbolised. Outside the basilica was a sloping zigzag path with fourteen statues, representing the Stations of the Cross, arranged chronologically from bottom to top.

From Lipova we drove to Arad, the nearest city to Timișoara and the last place I visited on my tour of Romania last year. We met my female student’s cousin at a restaurant where we had pizza. Her cousin, a teacher, was amazed (in a good way) that somebody from a wealthy English-speaking country would choose to live and teach in Romania. It was the first time I’d ever eaten pizza topped with peas and corn. Not my first choice I guess, but it was fine. From Arad we took the motorway back to Timișoara. By that stage I was tired. I’d been speaking Romanian or attempting to all afternoon, and speaking any language for hours at a time is exhausting for me.

I might try and write again this evening. One of my students, who weighs 19 stone, has had to have a knee operation, so I have a gap in tonight’s schedule.

A typical Tuesday

I thought I’d describe yesterday, a typically terrific Tuesday in Timișoara, while it’s still relatively fresh in my mind.

I got up at 7:30; these days I rarely get up much earlier than that. I didn’t have any lessons until 12:30 so I made a trip to the supermarket and did some preparation, printing off Halloween and Guy Fawkes-related worksheets for my younger students. For Octavian, the ten-year-old, I added a few “squares that do things” to my Crazy Rabbits board game, trying to avoid the absurdity of squares that direct you to other squares that direct you to other squares, or worse, squares that send you back to where you came from, sending you into a vicious never-ending loop. I loved making Crazy Rabbits. The point of the game is to get the kid to recognise numbers written in words: “The farmer is coming. Go back to twelve.”

I grabbed lunch at twelve, then had my lesson with the young couple. I use one of the Cambridge courses for them, rather than creating everything off my own bat. The subject of this lesson happened to be online dating, but really it taught you how to say what you have in common (or not) with another person. We finished with twenty minutes to spare and I just played Hangman with them until the end of the lesson. This situation is likely to come up frequently (we have four lessons a week), so I’ll need some better filler exercises. They’d been badgering me to choose a suitable grammar book for them (they’re the sort of people who like rules), so yesterday, after some research, I suggested they get English Grammar In Use, another Cambridge-published tome. To my surprise, he bought it there and then using his phone. After the lesson I had to catch the bus to Strada Ion Ionescu de la Brad for my session with the lolly-stick-making company. As I reached the bottom of the stairs I realised I’d forgotten to take my sweets for Matei’s lesson, and all that extra faff meant I had to jog to ensure I made the bus. The bus was crowded, so crowded that I couldn’t reach the card machine without scrambling over people, so I didn’t even pay.

At the lolly-stick factory, two people showed up. One turned up late due to a meeting; they both left ten minutes early thanks to another meeting. We talked about the various ways of asking questions. Object questions (Where do you come from?), subject questions (Who comes from Romania?), yes-or-no questions (Do you come from Romania?), rising-voice questions (You come from Romania?), tag questions (You come from Romania, don’t you?) and probably some others. I was asked why you need to know that object questions have an auxiliary verb while subject verbs don’t. Why does it matter? Ah yes, that tricky question again. Why does it matter? How the hell do I answer that? A month ago I didn’t even know it was true, let alone that it mattered. I told them that at B2 level you’re expected to think about these things, but that probably wasn’t the right answer.

Finishing ten minutes early was a great help, because it meant I could get to Matei’s lesson on time. Just after the abandoned beige Trabant, I followed a track that took me from Strada IIDLB to the edge of a housing estate on the border of Timișoara and Dumbrăvița. The track is strewn with rubbish, and you sometimes (as I did yesterday) see people there who look a little unsavoury. In two weeks it’ll be dark when I walk along there. At a brisk pace it takes me twenty minutes to walk to Matei’s place. When I arrived at 5:30, he greeted me with a “boo”. His room was all Halloweened up, with fake blood splattering his door and walls. Halloween has no business being within 1000 miles of Romania’s borders, but if it makes a nine-year-old boy happy I’m not too bothered. I now always have my laptop with me when I see Matei, because I use it at the lolly-stick factory, so we watched some cartoons on YouTube, including one of the old Popeye cartoons (which I think are great) and some modern crap that Matei likes and I can’t remember the name of. We read some Captain Underpants, played a Halloween board game, solved a few dozen puzzles on my 4 Pics 1 Word app, and at then it was time to go.

I then had another twenty-minute trek so I could catch the only bus that would get me home in time for my final lesson of the day. I got back at 8:25, five minutes before our scheduled start, but my students were already waiting outside. We talked about festivals (traditional Romanian ones as well as imported ones such as Halloween and modern ones like Children’s Day), then I got them to match a total of 64 phrasal verbs (eight groups of eight) with their definitions, not an easy task. When we’d finished that, we had ten minutes left, so I brought out my handmade Taboo cards (describe a carrot without saying eat, vegetable or orange, that kind of thing) which made for (I think) a successful end to the session. At ten o’clock my work day was over.

I’ve made it!

Last week I passed a billboard advertising jobs at McDonalds. It showed the salaries for both burger flippers and trainee managers. I’m now earning more than a trainee manager at McDonalds in Romania. I’ve made it!

I’ll never make a ton of money at this job, but I’m now supporting myself now, just about, without having to rely on my rental income. And it’s extremely satisfying work. When I’m reading chapters of The Twits or Captain Underpants to my junior students, it doesn’t feel like work at all. Yes, Mum very kindly ordered some kids’ books for me they turned up last week. My teaching job has given Mum and I something to talk about, and our relationship has improved as a result. The benefits of my job seem almost endless.

In previous jobs I’d show up on a Wednesday, and I’d have literally no recollection of what I’d done on Monday or Tuesday unless I’d written it down. Sometimes I couldn’t even remember what I’d done two minutes earlier. My memory was dangerously bad. A big part of that was my depression, plus the fact that I didn’t give a toss, which is part and parcel of the same thing. Now I continually amaze myself by how little I forget. Matei is on £16,000 with his phone-a-friend lifeline remaining; Elena wants to learn about phrasal verbs involving ‘get’; I’ve got a lesson on body parts planned for Oana and Cătălin; I’m just about to start Chapter 6 with Luminița; and so on. Neither do I forget (touch wood) the lesson times themselves, although I keep quite meticulous records of my past and future lessons.

It’s a cool, crisp, cloudless autumn morning here in Timișoara, similar to the mornings you get in Geraldine. My parents currently have Mum’s younger brother staying with them. He’s 66 and has recently given up the monotony of selling insurance. (He’s very quick-witted and would have made a great teacher.) I’m sure he’d like to give up the monotony of his marriage too. His wife never lets him do anything, apart from play golf and watch sport on TV. He’s never been further than Australia. But now he’s surprised everybody by booking a trip to Europe to attend my brother’s wedding. Good on him. He’ll travel around the UK with my aunt, Mum’s older sister.

New Zealand has a new government. I didn’t vote in the election, but would have voted Labour in a heartbeat had I done so. (I wouldn’t have voted Green except perhaps as a tactical vote; they’ve lost their way a little ever since Russel Norman left.) I’m happy, albeit surprised, that Labour were able to form a government. National were competent enough, but I was never convinced that they really gave a shit about people. Maybe Jacinda Ardern’s new government will work out, maybe it won’t, but we all need to keep an open mind.

Both Mum and Dad now think I’ll never come back to New Zealand. Never is an awfully long time, and I’d feel terrible about abandoning my parents in their old age, but they’re right that I won’t be leaving Romania any time in the near future.

In business

I haven’t written for absolutely ages, and that’s for two reasons. One, I lost my internet connection. Because I hadn’t paid. In Romania they give you no warning; they just pull the plug. I felt a bit silly when I eventually found out the reason, but also relieved; I paid them for two months (just to make sure) and I was reconnected within minutes. I’m not sure the concept of direct debit has arrived in Romania yet, and I now realise there’s no use relying on my memory to keep track of all my manual payments I have to actually write them down. The other reason is work. In the last three weeks, my workload has rocketed into orbit. I now have roughly 30 hours of lessons a week. It can be tiring at times, when you consider all the necessary preparation, but it’s awesome. Really. I wouldn’t want to be anywhere else, or do anything else. Being my own boss is the best feeling in the world. Freedom!

So in case you were wondering, I’m still alive, but I have to sign off because (guess what) I’m about to have another lesson. Hopefully I’ll write a proper post tomorrow.

 

First man on the moon

I’ve had a big week: 23 hours of teaching over six days. When I came to Romania I thought I might not manage 23 hours in total. There’s a fair bit of preparation time too of course, so I’m working close to a full week now. The competition, or total lack of it, is helping me greatly. In a city the size of Wellington with thousands of people wanting to improve their English for thousands of reasons, I seem to be the only native speaker giving private lessons. I feel like a pioneer. The first man on the moon. Or Pluto. And that’s a pretty exciting feeling. At the beginning I struggled to build momentum and would lose students as fast as I’d gain them, but in the last few weeks I seem to have passed a tipping point: people are starting to like what I do and are recommending me to friends. In the new year I’ll probably increase my prices for new students, but I won’t want to overdo that and price myself out of the non-manicured-lawns market.

In contrast to my private lessons which I enjoy immensely, my new job with the language school is, in some ways, a pain in the butt. The work itself is perfectly fine, but I miss out on other potential lessons due to the travel time, and all the admin that goes with it is a chore. (I mean, I don’t have a problem with admin. At times I even like admin. But only if it’s my own admin that uses my own systems. I really can’t be arsed with other people’s admin anymore.) On Tuesday only one person showed up to the lesson, and we got sidetracked trying to calculate just how many tonnes of lolly sticks are produced annually by the company. We arrived at a figure of 7500 tonnes. On Thursday two people turned up. The most difficult part of that lesson was reading from an on-screen PDF of which one page was printed upside down. I could have rotated the document but then all the other pages would have been upside down instead. I shouldn’t complain too much: the language school lessons are only 15% of my workload, and the rest of the time I’m free to do as I please.

There’s a cinema underneath my apartment block. I’ve wanted to go there since I moved in, but I’ve had nobody to go with. This weekend Timishort, a festival of short films, has been running, so yesterday I went there on my own. It cost me just 5 lei (a pound!) to see five 20-minute films. Incredible value. One of them was Eat Me, a thought-provoking Bulgarian-made musical about food. Where does it come from? What does it do to you? That would be my pick of the five, though I also liked The Committee, an amusing Scandinavian-made film about choosing a monument (or something) to replace the current stone at the SwedenNorwayFinland tripoint. The cinema itself, which is only open four days a week, is a far cry from your modern multiplex. It reminds me a bit of the cinema in Geraldine. It has a single screen with a surprisingly large capacity. The seats are rather hard so some people brought cushions, and it got a bit chilly in there. Next time I’ll know.

We’ve had lovely weather of late; the autumn colours in Timișoara are really quite beautiful.