7/10/16

It’s a year to the day since I arrived at my hotel in Timișoara after two days’ train travel. I surprised the receptionist by knowing how to say “four nights” and “water” in Romanian. Just to lie on that bed felt great. I’ve made it. Of course I hadn’t made it. I’d landed in a very strange country with no job, no contacts, no nothing. And I’m now very glad I did so.

I should have at least 20 hours of teaching next week, perhaps as many as 24. My evenings are now jam-packed with lessons. It’s bloody fantastic to be honest.

It feels good to be alive

Last weekend was great for all of us. There were so many interesting little things along the way, like the animals we met, the old (and not so old) ladies in headscarves who congregated on benches, the villagers who gave us surprisingly accurate directions, the big places on the map that turned out to be tiny, the tiny places on the map that turned out to be substantial, the significant places that were missing from the map altogether, the ramshackle cafés we visited, the lady at one of the cafés who politely commented on my overly aspirated pronunciation of the letter T, the slabs of meat we ate despite our best efforts to avoid them, and the crazy road surfaces I drove on (a skating rink for ten miles, the surface of the moon for the next ten, then a signposted main road would turn into an equally signposted muddy farm track). Unlike my parents who are basically the same age, my travelling companions never entirely left the sixties behind, so they had fairly relaxed attitudes to a lot of things. They enjoyed their trip and their time in Timișoara. I hope they come back.

I gained some valuable experience of driving on this side of the road, facilitated by a very competent navigator and the absence of anybody related to me. I drove 700 km in all. Returning the hire car on Monday in rush-hour traffic was a challenge, especially because my phone was going like billio, but we managed it and got back our deposit.

I’m getting quite a lot of work now. Yesterday I started with a ten-year-old boy called Octavian who obviously comes from a well-heeled family. On Tuesday I had my first session at the lollipop-stick factory; only two employees, both senior managers, showed up. Tomorrow I should be having my third lesson with the shy 4½-year-old girl. After a trial run on Tuesday, I should also be doing short (15-minute) phone-based language assessments which could be a useful money-spinner because they require little preparation.

My life is interesting and varied; it feels good to be alive. I won’t be leaving Romania any time in the near future if I can possibly help it. I wouldn’t mind having a fuller social life, and I hope that will come in time.

I’m just about to watch at least some of Game 1 of the series between the Red Sox and the Astros. I like Baseball because it kind of makes sense. Very little else in America seems to right now.

A relaxing weekend away

I’m writing this short post from Pensiunea Laura in the bustling village of Chișcău, almost right next to Peștera Urșilor, a.k.a. the Bears’ Cave. We visited the cave this morning; at almost a mile in length it was a sight to behold. As we entered the cave, it was strewn with bones from bears and other huge beasts. The stalagmites, stalactites and columns at times looked like marble figures. It was quite fantastic, as if we’d stepped into a scene from Lord of the Rings. (Mines of Moria? The first film? I forget.) After the cave, we walked down the long high street, stopping at a museum on the way. This was really a makeshift (but extensive) museum of farm machinery and tools, including all sorts of weird and wonderful Heath Robinson-style contraptions that we couldn’t figure out at all, and are probably still in use in Romania today. It’s been a relaxing and sunny Sunday.

Yesterday was rather different. I drove the best part of 300 km from our beautiful lodgings in Zolt to our booked accommodation in Chișcău, which I thought we might never reach. Things were fairly plain sailing to begin with as we stopped at Făget and Brad, but figuring out the last bit without GPS or a detailed enough map was no easy matter. We ended up a couple of kilometres from our destination but the only way to get there was down an extremely narrow gravel track that our car certainly couldn’t handle. Darkness was about to descend. Check-in supposedly ended at 8pm. We were hungry. Had I been with my parents, we’d have needed to scrape Mum off the roof of the car. Instead we kept our cool, rang the hotel people, got some surprisingly accurate directions from a man in one of the villages, and everything turned out fine. The level of calmness inside the car just about blew me away, as did the beauty of villages we passed through. We also met just about every farm animal I can think of except pigs.

The most stressful part for me was before we even started, when we had to find the rental car place.

Yes I really am starting the new job on Tuesday, with four students from a company where they make, as far as I can tell, lolly sticks. Somebody has to. Tomorrow morning I have to take a Skype call related to this job, after which we’ll head back to Timișoara.

Time zones

There’s a lot to get through so please bear with me.

Summer ended last Sunday afternoon and I thought the world might end with it. A freak storm whirled through, splitting tree trunks down the middle, lifting tiles from rooftops, and smashing windows. Debris swirled as if in a washing machine. A large copper sheet flew off the cathedral, whose clock stopped at 3:31. After only 15 minutes, all was calm. I was so lucky to be inside at the time. Tragically eight people lost their lives including five in Timiș district. One person was killed at the zoo by a falling tree, another by the large overhead sign at one of the entrances to Timișoara that crashed down on his car as he was driving. The storm was unforecast; people were just enjoying their Sunday afternoon.

As the storm hit I was making some animal cards for my latest student, a 4½-year-old girl. I’m not sure exactly where my teaching comfort zone is yet, but kindergarten-aged girls aren’t even on the same continent. On Monday I made my way to Dumbrăvița for a one-hour lesson with Alexandra, armed with my animal cards, number cards, and a simple board game that I’d painstakingly drawn out. Alexandra was lovely. But she was shy and didn’t want anything to do with me. When her mother’s request for her to come downstairs was met with “De ce?” (“Why?”) I knew I was in for a tough time. Teaching quickly became secondary to the task of making any sort of connection. Sadly I didn’t have much success. Both her parents were there, and that only made me more self-conscious. Of course, being the first lesson, I didn’t know what she knew, even in her native language. She did know her colours and farm animals in English. Next time (apparently there will be a next time) I’ll probably just bring my laptop and put on some cartoons.

There was a funny moment in one of my lessons on Wednesday. This was my 34th lesson with my first-ever student. We’d done plenty of reading, listening and speaking since November but very little writing. I had three subjects face-down on sheets of paper, and asked him to pick one at random and write about it. “Write about someone you admire.” He didn’t particularly fancy this topic. I told him he could do one of the others instead, but he said, “They’ll all be the same shit.” He was half-joking, and in the end wrote quite a moving paragraph about his aunt.

Yesterday I had a three-hour lesson with a woman just two years younger than me. She was 15 minutes late, which is good going for her. We had what I’d like to think was a fun and productive lesson. Pronunciation Battleships (a game I basically invented) raised a few laughs. It’s like normal Battleships, except the coordinates are pairs of words that almost nobody in the whole of Romania can pronounce, so instead of a square being B3 or F5, it’s roughqueue or bought–fruit. I certainly get some interesting pronunciations of “queue”: I’ve so far had kway, kwee and kwee-wee. I gave her a writing exercise: she had to write about a country she’d like to visit. She picked Australia, full of mountains, museums, castles and beautiful villages. I was flummoxed by this; I didn’t twig that she meant Austria. It was tipping it down outside and I mentioned to her that I had to take the bus to Dumbrăvița for my next lesson (with Matei). At the end of the lesson she offered to drive me there, but only after she did some stuff in town. This was awkward for me – there was obviously no way I’d get to my lesson on time once she’d done her stuff, but she didn’t see that teaching is my job, and being on time for my job is important to me. I’d rather have taken the bus, but I felt it was impolite to refuse her offer. Even the clock in her car was three to four minutes slow – that would drive me insane (a stopped clock or one that showed an obviously wrong time would be much better because I could simply ignore it). I was 15 minutes late, but neither Matei nor his dad seemed to be too bothered. Even though my 35-year-old student lives on a different time zone to me, we get on well. I’ve invited her out for a drink tomorrow at three, so if I leave at ten past I should have heaps of time.

By then, a picture should have emerged from New Zealand’s election. I haven’t followed the run-up much the last three years have seen so many high-profile elections and referendums that I feel electioned out but from what I can tell, people have been far more engaged than last time around. The Jacinda effect is surely a part of that. And this time serious issues that actually matter to people are getting talked about, unlike in that ghastly 2014 campaign. The massive and increasing gap between rich and poor, the housing crisis, immigration, the mental health crisis (let’s not mince words here), education (the burden on teachers in NZ increases every year and they don’t get paid nearly enough), the dairy industry messing up the environment there’s a lot that’s badly wrong. I still expect National to form a government, just.

Some friends from St Ives are coming to Timișoara on Tuesday and are staying for a week. On Friday we’ll head off in a car and go… to be honest we’ve got no idea where. They’ve never been to Romania before, so I probably need to decide. They’re very free-spirited people so it should be fun.

Mum and Dad have both had the flu lately and haven’t been able to shake it off. It’s been sending Dad’s warfarin levels all over the show. They’ve just been put on courses of antibiotics. Let’s hope they do the trick.

Trying to shtring something together

I meant to post this on Sunday but the internet on this laptop slowed to a trickle. It’s back to its world-famous-in-Romania lightning pace now, which is just as well because without decent internet I struggle to do my job properly. My internet woes sent me into a mad panic yesterday so I tried to relax a bit by heading to the pool (the temperature was in the low 30s). Going to the pool, or the ștrand as they call it here, is quite a popular pastime. It’s not as if we have a beach here. It’s a bit hard to say ștrand. At the start of the word you have to shtring together a bunch of consonants à la John Key with his “shtrong and stable”, but with a Romanian-style rolled R thrown in for good measure. Ștrudel and albaștri (the masculine plural form of “blue”) likewise require tongue gymnastics for me. For 17 lei you get to lie on a sun lounger and listen to slightly annoying music. I positioned myself as far from the speakers as I could get. The pool is great though. I met two English women there, probably in their fifties. One of them introduced herself as Marilyn but her friend called her Mazz.

FaceTime. Presumably it’s called that because the person on the other end can see your face all the time. That can be a bugger, especially when that person is my mum. She likes to comment on the chubbiness of my face. For some reason that’s where the weight goes, and I probably did put on a pound or two last week from all the plum crumble I ate. The previous weekend I picked about eight kilos of plums, from a tree-lined street not too far from Mehala market.

Today I had my 30th lesson with Matei. He made a couple of inspired guesses in the Millionaire game before getting greedy and bombing out on the half-million-pound question. Then he thrashed me 5-0 in Last Card. Yesterday was the start of his new year at school. His school is number 24. When he lived in Bucharest, he went to number 56. I imagine this fantastically creative naming scheme harks back to the communist era, when they wouldn’t have wanted anybody to stand out. There still would have been a number 1 though.

Two pieces of brother-related news. One, he got whisked off to the Caribbean at two hours’ notice to help with the fallout from Hurricane Irma. I’m guessing it’s the British Virgin Islands. Second, his wedding has been set for 26th May at the Royal Citadel in Plymouth. That’s a pretty awesome location for a wedding if you ask me, not that I’m the best person to ask. It should be relatively inexpensive too. If he’d married the last one I dread to think what it would have cost. She’d have wanted all the bells, whistles and gongs, that’s for sure.

Last week I received the sad news that Out of Sync, a Wellington-based group where adults on the autistic spectrum meet up once a fortnight, is coming to an end. Although I’ve never had a diagnosis, I went to the group from 2011 until the end of 2015. When I first went it was bloody great: eight or so slightly unusual folks pinging wildly from one conversation topic to the next, like a demented pinball machine. After a distinctly uncomfortable Monday at work, I could relax for a couple of hours. Then the numbers grew, new facilitators took over, and before long it had changed beyond all recognition. It had become a sort of workshop, with rules and pre-arranged topics. The higher-functioning members of the group got sick of being treated like kids, and a lot of them quit. But it still gave autistic people the chance (often the only chance) to meet others in a relatively safe environment, so it served a purpose. Next Monday will be the last session. The email I received cited general dissatisfaction with the group, the fact that they would need to move yet again, and the big one, reduced funding. That New Zealand, second in the OECD in X and third in Y, can’t afford to run a group like that is all kinds of wrong.

Amazingly normal

Yes, I’ve got the job at the language school and I’m trying to sort the contract out now. I’m not exactly au fait with Romanian legalese and all the various acts and declarations and what have you. Assuming everything does get signed off, I still don’t know when I’ll start, what I’ll be doing precisely, or indeed whether I’ll be any good at it. What I do know is how much I’ll get paid, and it isn’t a lot. It’s marginally less than I get from my private one-on-one lessons. But taking the job should have all kinds of long-term benefits, so I’m excited to have the opportunity. I’d have to go back to 2004 for the last time I felt excited at being offered a job, and in that case the excitement wore off inside 24 hours. As for the job with the council, I wasn’t excited so much as relieved to be getting an increased salary and, more importantly, turning my back on the insurance industry.

Now that August is behind us, the one-on-one lessons are picking up again, or in yesterday’s case, two-on-one. I had my first lesson with a young couple, aged just 20 and 21. It wasn’t easy because he was at a much higher level than her and had far more confidence. She has highly ambitious plans to be near-fluent by next summer, so I’ll have my work cut out.

I’ve lived in Romania for almost a year, and now it all feels incredibly normal. I have no desire to go back home, wherever home even is. New Zealand is a great country but what would I do if I went back there? After going through the motions for so long, here in Romania I feel relaxed, comfortable in my own skin, alive! Slowly but surely I’m going somewhere I actually want to be. It’s bloody amazing really. I’m proud of myself for having the courage to completely change my life, but I’m also very lucky. Most people just aren’t in a position to do what I’ve done.

This morning it looked like the big Badea Cârțan market had disappeared. Oh no! But not to worry; it had just moved to Piața Traian for three months while Badea Cârțan is being renovated. The markets are great at this time of year, with stalls practically overflowing with bell peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes weighing up to a kilo each. There were also plenty of homegrown apples, some that wouldn’t have made the cut when I was a kid (I used to sell apples from our trees). As always there were lots of cheeses, but so far they’ve been a bit disappointing. Here you can buy many varieties of cow, sheep and goat cheeses but they look and taste surprisingly similar. Finally this week I chanced upon a sheep cheese that had a much richer, farmier flavour.

New Zealand’s latest suicide figures came out early this week. They are ugly reading, and to make matters worse, nobody quite knows why New Zealand has such a high suicide rate. It’s probably a combination of reasons. But one thing’s for sure: the cutbacks to mental health services that the country has seen under the present government have been inexcusable.

New job

This is a very quick post to say that I got the job. I don’t know when I’ll start, how many students I’ll have, how many hours a week I’ll have, or many details at all. But I’m pretty happy with the news nonetheless.

Today is also the 20th anniversary of Princess Diana’s death. I heard about it on a Malaysia Airlines flight: Mum and I were flying into Kuala Lumpur on the way back from New Zealand.

I’ll write more tomorrow.

Hellishly hot

It’s been hellishly hot the last few days. As I write this at 6pm, it’s nudging 40 degrees in Timișoara, and Europe as a whole is sweltering in its most severe heatwave since 2003 when thousands of mainly elderly people in France succumbed. I’ve been avoiding the outside world between about 10am and 9pm whenever possible, but sometimes I have no choice. Heading out to Dumbrăvița on Thursday in 38-degree heat wasn’t a lot of fun. But at the time I thought to myself that temporary discomfort was a pretty small price to pay if it meant I go to do something I enjoyed.

On Wednesday I worked for 7½ hours without leaving my flat. It wasn’t a perfect day – I ran into trouble when one of my students absorbed all my planned material with half an hour still to play and I had to frantically find something – but my last lesson went well and afterwards I felt a warm feeling of satisfaction wash over me, something akin to the time I bounced down the steps of my student’s apartment block last November, feeling about eight foot five. Over half my teaching for the week – 14½ hours – was crammed into that one day.

I’ve just finished Bruce Springsteen’s autobiography. Maybe I shouldn’t have been surprised he’s an incredible songwriter after all but it’s an exceptionally well-written and well-produced book. I like that he recognises how lucky he’s been far too many successful people don’t. It’s funny that whenever I read any published material in English now, I do so with a teacher’s eye. Several times in the book, “bused” is used to mean “transported by bus”. Why on earth would you spell that with a single S?! The answer is that in the US, the spelling “bused” alleviates confusion with the past tense of “buss”, an old-fashioned verb meaning “to kiss”. On a few occasions he uses “mike” to mean microphone. Yay! That’s so much more logical to me than “mic” which has grown in popularity, to my annoyance. He uses A LOT of all-caps not something I would do but it WORKS!

This afternoon I watched the first episode of Series 3 of Black Mirror. In this age of like counts and friend tallies and social graphs, a system where likes and dislikes are hard currency is all too disturbingly imaginable. Tellingly, the only person in the film I warmed to was a dishevelled elderly truck driver, and her score had plummeted to the point where she effectively lived off the grid, although at the end I did find the main character much more likeable.

On the subject of dystopia, I mentioned Bruce Springsteen’s Vietnam draft-dodging before. I didn’t know this before, but in December 1969 they held a nationally televised draft lottery, where birthdays were drawn from a jar to determine the order in which young men would be drafted. You can find footage of the lottery on YouTube. The whole process is so messed up, and just to make you wonder if it’s even real, they play a “Merry Christmas” ad for a shaver in the middle of it all. To cap it all off, the lottery wasn’t even random: if you were born late in the year, you had a better chance of drawing one of the unlucky low numbers because the capsules had been placed in the jar in month order and hadn’t been mixed properly most of the November and December dates remained at the top of the jar. Because it’s a classic randomisation failure, I’m surprised I didn’t know about the lottery before, given my interest in statistics.

I get all the news I need on the weather report

Last week I taught for 16 hours, a new record! The more work I get, the better I feel. It really is that simple. I did have to navigate some fairly heavy seas on Monday night when my new student (yes, she turned up!) wasn’t at the level I’d anticipated. Our conversation was slow going. Time slowed to a crawl. Will she even want to come back? But she did, on both Wednesday and Friday, and will return again on Monday. She’s a student, just 21 or thereabouts, and like so many young women here, she’s very attractive. She was born and bred in Moldova, where the levels of corruption (as she described them) make Romania sound like, well, New Zealand.

This move has been nothing short of life-changing for me. I now have a purpose, a reason to get out of bed in the morning. My work is extremely satisfying, and in between lessons, I can relax in this beautiful city. I’m longer in this vicious cycle of doing things I don’t want to do so I can do more things I don’t want to do, year in, year out. Yeah, I’d still like a few more hours and the extra money that would bring; I’m having to be pretty frugal. I’d like to meet more people, do cultural stuff like go to the theatre, and of course travel. But Romania wasn’t built in a day. Completely overhauling my life will take time.

I try to avoid most political news now. It feels like it’s been wall-to-wall politics for the last three years, and I can’t be the only one who’s had enough. Still, the failure of the Republicans’ zombie-like healthcare repeal bill did put a smile on my face. As for the weather, last Monday night we had an electrical storm which gave us respite from the scorching weather for the rest of the week, but when I look at the seven-day forecast I see a high of 34, another of 36, a quartet of 37s, and even a 38. The title of this post, by the way, is from Simon and Garfunkel’s brilliant The Only Living Boy in New York. I remember one time that song came on the radio as I was about to go through Mt Victoria Tunnel in Wellington on the way home, but I went the long way instead to avoid missing the song.

I spoke to my brother earlier today. It was his 36th birthday on Thursday. He seemed happy for me.

Unblocking my passages

I wish it wasn’t so damn hot. The good news is tomorrow will be the last in a long line of 36s and 37s for a while if the forecast is even semi-accurate.

I went back to the orelist, or ENT specialist, last week. He poked a camera up my nose and I was able to see just how swollen and blocked my turbinates were. That’s one problem. The other is some deviation in my septum, caused (I think) by a slight fracture when Mum dropped me on the stairs when I was just two, before any carpets were put in our house. He’s given me some more drugs to sniff and swallow but I might end up having an operation that will put me in hospital for two or three days, perhaps in the autumn. Amazingly Mum said she’d be happy to fly out here from New Zealand if and when I have the op. I mean, she stayed home back in oh-five when Dad went to the UK for the operation on his aortic valve that almost did for him, so I don’t know what to make of that. Mum and I have talked a lot on the phone in the month since my parents were here, and we’ve been getting on absolutely fine. In fact, better than that, she’s taken a keen interest in my lessons, especially the ones involving nine-year-old Matei.

Yep, she’s right, two hours is too long for Matei. It’s almost too long for me. He’s starting to get bored of me I think, and after 21 two-hour sessions I’m running out of topics. Weather, superheroes, modes of transport, aliens, types of homes, animals, sports, body parts, directions, things you find in a city, you name it, we’ve covered it. And to make matters worse, it’s the middle of summer and he probably doesn’t want to be doing any of this English crap that his parents are forcing him to do anyway.

My favourite lesson last week was with a 30-year-old woman whose English I’d rate at a 7 out of 10. We discussed a hundred or more tricky words like paucity and disavow and conscientious. That was pretty cool. After the lesson I reflected on how mad and awesome it is that I’m doing this. In Romania. I could go back to New Zealand at some point, but there’s no way I could go back to my previous life, or existence, to be more accurate.

I was pretty much tearing my hair out when I got a no-show on Saturday from my most reliable student. I’ve got 17 hours planned for this week, including 4½ with a new student who may or may not show up. This unreliability is still a huge problem, and I’m trying to think of ways to combat it.

Federer did win Wimbledon last weekend, playing brilliantly against a hampered Cilic in the final, and I was glad it was all over for another year.