Blogging my dream

I want to change tack a little with this blog. Shifting your whole life to some weird and wacky country 11,000 miles away where you don’t know anybody, don’t speak the language, don’t have any guaranteed work and have never even set foot in before… well, I guess you could say that’s a fairly major undertaking. For many people with their friends and families and identities all wrapped up in a place called home, it would be like going to Mars (and actually some of the temperatures we got here in January weren’t far off). So I’d like to post a bit more often and talk more about the things I do and see and the people I meet on a daily basis, and the challenges I face with the language and the culture and figuring out the various hows and whys. Last week for instance I took a bus (probably not the best bus, as it turned out) and then traipsed across half the city trying to find a particular shop that might, perhaps, sell the laptop I was looking for. I found the right street, a busy street, a main street. The shop was at 56A and I was outside number 32 so it was clearly just up there a little bit, maybe just past the petrol station. Well it was certainly past the petrol station, and a school, and a few factories, and another petrol station, and a small farm with lots of chickens, and some muddy park of sorts, and I could see a large overhead sign up ahead telling me I was about to leave Timioara entirely, but sure enough there was the shop, a surprisingly big shop in fact, full of empty spaces where my desired laptop might once have been. That trip took over three hours there and back, and I take similar essentially futile excursions on a regular basis, but I learn a little bit more with each one.

Today is officially the last day of winter. There isn’t a cloud in the sky. The temperature is forecast to rocket into the high teens later today. Perfect for me. The streets are lined with stallholders selling mărțișoare, which are little amulets or talismans that people give to each other on the first day of spring. That’s yet another Romanian tradition that is completely new to me. The central squares are packed with people, even in the middle of a work day, and none of them seem to be that bothered to get anywhere in particular. A bit like me really. Do any of them work? Or do they all have “jobs” like mine? The team bus of Poli Timioara, the local football team, has just pulled in and the players have filed into the cathedral, but I don’t even think God can save them from relegation now. They were penalised 14 points for multiple irregularities before the season even started, and they’re now sitting on 13 points, second from bottom, having just been hammered 5-0 in Constanța by the competition leaders Viitorul, or The Future.

I now have five students. Count ’em, five! One of them gets four two-hour lessons from me every week via Skype, one of them can unfortunately only afford one lesson a month, and the rest are somewhere in between. Teaching is bloody great! I get to chat to people one-on-one in a relaxed environment, I get to talk about aspects of language which fascinate me, I get to discuss news articles and song lyrics, I get to improve my Romanian a little bit too, and best of all I gets tons and tons of job satisfaction. I don’t get that awful “what the fuck did I actually do today?” feeling over and over, week in, week out, where nothing ever happens and the needle returns to the start of the song and here we go again. I’m helping people and I’m getting paid for something I enjoy doing. It’s amazing, really. As I keep saying, it’s a dream.

Happy with my lot

Dad emailed me last night to say that both he and Mum were very proud of me for having the guts to move to Romania and make a proper go of it here. That meant a lot to me. He said that I’ve already surpassed his (admittedly pretty low) expectations. Yes, coming here took some serious balls. I didn’t know anyone here and I’d never been here or anywhere in Eastern Europe in my life before. To say it was daunting would be a major understatement. But shit, how daunting was the alternative?! I’d been going through the motions for so bloody long that eventually I was going to crack. I simply had to break the cycle before it was too late.

And here I am. It still feels like a dream. The beautiful cathedral reminding me of its presence 96 times a day, the old trams (and new ones) rattling past, the parks lined with trees that will burst into leaf in a couple of short weeks. The melt-in-your-mouth bread from the bakery down below, the cheese, the salami, the peppers. I can now eat an orange in my workplace without the juice going all over the keyboard. I haven’t ironed anything in five months. I’ve been gradually stocking my wardrobe with clothes that I actually like wearing, such as the purple merino cardigan I bought for only 8 lei from one of the many second hand shops in the city; it seemed like new. I have no team meetings to remember (or forget, as the case often was for one particular weekly meeting at my last job, much to my embarrassment); I have no team.

I haven’t made a bad start with the teaching and my Skype student is a huge help, but I still need more business. I also need to meet more people even if I’m getting a healthy amount of human interaction from my lessons. But I don’t feel in any rush. Next week I hope to get a website up and running to help promote Skype lessons, and some business cards printed. Yes, business cards that won’t just sit in a drawer like all my previous ones have. One time I used them to make a card game I’d dreamt up.

The last couple of weeks have been frustrating with all my tech issues, and after contacting my cousin’s IT guru friend in Masterton, I bit the bullet and bought myself a new laptop. He said I would need a new hard drive and a clean reinstall of Windows 10, and the amount of time and effort and money involved wouldn’t be worth it. I’d already spent many hours painstakingly transferring data onto flash drives. At close to NZ$1200, this new Lenovo machine wasn’t cheap. It has a solid state drive and I hope it stays in a solid state as I drive it. It’s also a 2-in-1 meaning that it folds right back to become a tablet. So far (day three) it’s been pretty damn fantastic. Both the TV and washing machine are now working too, so I’m cooking with gas, so to speak.

The magnesium I took (and have now finished) was in the form of vials, not tablets.

Suffice to say I’m pretty happy with my lot right now.

 

State of health

Technology. Who needs it? My washing machine has packed in, I’ve lost my TV signal on all channels, and this bloody computer has a habit of slowing to a crawl, especially when I use Skype or even have it running in the background. Plus I need to make a website to promote those Skype lessons that help snarl up my laptop, and switching providers to save money is just too hard. There’s no way to communicate effectively with the new hosts, and given my total lack of technical expertise I do need to communicate quite a bit. I can use WordPress to make websites, and I used Dreamweaver to make a website before then, but as for what’s really going on in the background, I’m buggered if I know. So I’m a bit frustrated.

I’ve been impressed with my doctor here. This morning (Sunday) I went back for a second time, where I got my blood pressure taken and also had my first ECG test since 2003. When his assistant administered the ECG he tried to relax me by asking me to imagine I was on a beach somewhere, far, far away, “definitely not in Mamaia”, which is Romania’s famous beach resort and perhaps a little seedy. My blood pressure is on the low side and I’ve been told to stop taking the beta-blockers. My heart was basically fine but an M-shaped pattern in my heartbeat was indicative of low magnesium, and when I think about it I haven’t eaten a lot of nuts or green vegetables, foods that are rich in magnesium, in my time here. I will change that, but in the meantime I’ve been prescribed magnesium pills. I’ve also been told to see an ear, nose and throat specialist for my chronic rhinitis. I’ve had problems in that area ever since I had pneumonia at the age of six, and I’ve come to accept them as part of my everyday life. But they have impacted my life significantly. Right now I’m full of catarrh. Wouldn’t it be great to be rid of all of that after thirty years?

I have a friend of sorts in Wellington who has no internet access or much other kind of access. Last weekend I called her on her 71st birthday using Skype. Today I penned her a letter and enclosed some photos. With all my technological woes, I quite enjoyed the simplicity of a letter.

I now lead my cousin 21-9 in Words with Friends and have a large lead in the latter stages of our 31st game. I feel a bit bad because I’ve had a series of fairly narrow wins including a squeaker that I won by just three points and another game where I stole the win with a bingo (ENDIVES) on the final play. I’ve only completed five games against other people, winning just one of them. The word building and all the strategic considerations fascinate me. I might start playing on the Internet Scrabble Club, which was started by a Romanian as it happened, but only once I’ve committed all the two-letter words and some of the threes to memory. That’s always the problem for me. Can I be arsed to learn all those words, and shouldn’t I be doing something better with my time?

It’s been a beautiful weekend in Timișoara (or Temesvár or Temeswar or Темишвар) for relaxation, which has been my goal. Yeah, I do see and hear several different languages, and that’s pretty cool. Anyway the sun, which at ten to six is just setting outside my window now, has been out just about all of yesterday and today, and I’ve enjoyed just sitting in one of the many squares, watching people milling about to the sounds of an accordion. Very peaceful, and somehow very European.

I’ve got a lot to sort out this week.

The fight must go on

I gave a Skype lesson on Friday night and then played my cousin at Words with Friends for the 27th time. It had just gone eleven, and I had two blanks on my rack, when I could no longer concentrate on the game. What a remarkable sight and sound it was to see 30,000 people stream past my apartment block, armed with air horns and whistles, at that time of night. I gave my cousin a running commentary. Earlier I’d gone down to Piața Operei to see it relatively empty, and I wondered where everyone had gone, but they’d set off on their march through the city. Last night I spent some time in the square on a fifth consecutive night of protests, this time with the intent of joining them on the march, but the demonstration which had drawn a great crowd fizzled out at around ten. What’s happened? Have the people given in? Very bad news, I thought. But when I got home I read that the new prime minister had announced on TV that the government would repeal the new law, and in the last couple of hours they have done just that at an emergency meeting. It seems they have yielded to what has been very intense public pressure. But corruption is insidious in Romania and the people must continue to fight.

The protests were fascinating for me in many ways. I had an interesting time trying to decipher some of the banners and to understand what the hell they were chanting. I got some insight into Romanian culture. I was surprised how motivated younger people were to attend the protests when so few of them voted in December’s elections. I was also encouraged by how peaceful the demonstrations were and how many parents brought their children along. Seeing four-year-olds shout “de-mi-sia, de-mi-sia” (“resignation”) amused me. And visually, the protests were very impressive.

You could say that the low voter turnout was what caused this mess. As far as I can tell, the older generations voted PSD as they’ve always done, while the younger ones didn’t vote at all, and so the PSD got a thumping great share of the vote which allowed them to do pretty much what they liked, such as pass laws that decriminalise corruption. But then I don’t know how free and fair elections are in Romania.

I spoke to my parents this morning. My dad had just got back from a sailing trip in the Marlborough Sounds with two blokes both called Graeme. He seemed to enjoy the road trip there and back more than the rather claustrophobic few days on the boat. (The main road has been blocked since the November earthquake; now you have to go via Murchison, a town that has done quite nicely from the diversion, making for a seven-hour journey each way.) Mum had spent a few days in Moeraki with my aunt. I recently had a chat with Dad while Mum was at golf. He still finds his existence in that household plagued by unnecessary stress.

One of my previous students texted me earlier today to say that she won’t be wanting any more lessons from me because we couldn’t understand each other well enough. I’d already written her off. It was more than the language barrier, although that didn’t help. For whatever reason we just didn’t click. My Skype student now wants ten hours of lessons a week from me, starting tomorrow. Maybe she’s lonely.

I did find a word, LovELIER, with my rack. That low-scoring bingo helped me to a 401-344 win and an 18-9 lead overall. I was lucky with the blanks and S’s, although the high-scoring tiles I drew towards the end were more of a burden than anything as I had to quickly offload them. Having one blank on your rack is a huge asset; it effectively gives you 26 different racks and a much better chance of making a bingo or other high-scoring play. You have time in a game to go through the alphabet and consider each of the possible letters in turn. Having both blanks is even better, not least because you know your opponent won’t have one. But there are so many combinations with two blanks – 351 if I’m not mistaken – that you certainly can’t consider them all, and finding a bingo can be surprisingly difficult even if there are many available.

I’m thinking of getting into Scrabble reasonably seriously, despite all the things I don’t like about the game (all the silly words you have to commit to memory, mostly). I recently played a game of WWF where I had HIDEOUT on my rack, but nowhere I could see to play it. After giving up and playing a shorter word I realised I could have played the seven-letter bingo by attaching the O to the end of HOB. In Scrabble parlance, you’d say that HOB takes an O as a back hook. That kind of thing interests me. Learning all those stupid bloody words doesn’t, but maybe that won’t be a deal-breaker. We’ll see.

Romania is simmering

These are interesting times to be living in Romania. A law has been passed in secret that could effectively legalise corruption, freeing hundreds of politicians and senior officials from jail. There have been massive demonstrations all over Romania, including here in Timișoara, the biggest protests the country has seen since the end of communism in 1989. Romania has huge problems with corruption and they’re holding the country back in a big way. I’m very glad to see people taking to the streets. I was caught up in the crowd of (at a guess) 20,000 last night. Whistles, horns, megaphones, banners, Romanian flags, the national anthem, and many rhyming slogans; as far as I could see it was all very peaceful. News reports of hooligans, both here and overseas, give a false picture: the hooligans are a tiny minority. The first protest here was quite small, perhaps 1000 people, but they have since grown. Last night they marched past my apartment block at about 10:30, more than four hours after the start of the demonstration. I expect a big crowd again tonight, being a Friday. Who knows, maybe they will bring down the government. As I said, interesting times.

I’ve been having computer problems again. My laptop has developed a habit of freezing every few minutes. This morning I defragged my hard drive and that has, surprisingly, improved things somewhat. I think we all need to defrag every now and again. Without a fully functioning computer I’m pretty much stuffed.

I had two lessons scheduled for Wednesday but both my students pulled out for very different reasons. (At least there were reasons. There usually aren’t.) So that was a bugger. But it looks like I have acquired a new student, my third active one and my sixth overall. Yesterday, at his request, we met in Cărturești, a fairly upmarket bookshop near Piața Unirii, where we chatted for 90 minutes over tea. He paid me for that, and when he asked whether I’d agree to a buy nine, get one free arrangement for lessons I just about bit his hand off. He plans to actually have ten lessons with me. He’s very motivated, and that’s probably why he already has a very good command of English. I’d put him at an 8 out of 10. My Skype student pulled out of Wednesday’s lesson because she has exams, but she said she’ll soon want ten hours of lessons a week. I think my hourly rate is extremely cheap for her.

I’m so glad I’ve made the move. I wish I’d done it, or done something, earlier. I was stuck in a cycle of jobs that were meaningless or anxiety-provoking or repulsive or some combination of the three. Repulsive isn’t overstating it either. A lot of people find team meetings and performance reviews and corporate bullshit a bit of a drag, but for me it wasn’t a drag, it was a highly toxic mixture. If I stuck around much longer it might have killed me. Here there have been frustrations. I’ve found some people to be intimidating and untrustworthy. I’ve made suboptimal decisions, spending more time and money on things than I’ve needed, as I’ve tried to find my feet. I haven’t got to know a lot of people yet, although the lessons have helped. I haven’t picked up as much of the language as I’d have liked. But I’m comfortable, I’m making things happen, and I feel a general sense of hope, of optimism. I think I’d like to do this teaching thing for the next few years (I’ve never felt that about any previous job). I think Romania is awesome. I think I’ll be here a while.

Maybe I should use tonight’s protest to my advantage and risk putting up a few posters in the hope that the cops will be otherwise occupied.

I must admit, I never saw Roger Federer winning another grand slam, not for one minute. But he played sublime tennis for three sets out of five against Nadal in a very good final that wound the clock back a decade or so. The match wasn’t in the same league as, say, the 2008 Wimbledon final, because both players were rarely at their best at the same time, but it was still well worth watching and those last few games were gripping. Both men’s semis and the final were thoroughly good matches, all going five sets, and I’m trying to recall other grand slams where the last three men’s matches all went the distance. Wimbledon 2001 certainly (which had the added bonus of the women’s semis and finals all going to three sets) but I’m struggling to think of any others. A more recent Australian Open, perhaps.

My cousin just snapped a four-game losing streak against me in Words with Friends, winning our latest game 424 to 328 thanks to 115 points for CRAZE and some pretty ropy racks for me. I swapped tiles twice. The first time I needed to do so earlier but I was playing in the middle of the protest and was distracted. That was my lowest score since our seventh game. I’m now leading 17-9.