Timișoara with people!

My friends (or my parents’ friends really) arrived on Tuesday night. It’s been fun having them here in this wonderful city and meeting up with them in breaks between lessons. I feel perfectly comfortable with them. The highlight so far was perhaps eating out on Wednesday night. We ate at Timișoreana in the square. They both had fairly substantial meals while I was lumbered with a hunk of pork on a bone, with horseradish covering about a quarter of the plate. The pork was perfectly fine, but something with it would have been nice. We then went to a decidedly frill-free basementy “restaurant” alongside Piața 700 so I could properly fill up. The staff there were much older, male, and couldn’t speak English. There were no other customers. I had something advertised as sausage and bean soup, but “slop” might have been more accurate. We also had a beer each, and the whole lot came to 20 lei. Four quid. My friends couldn’t believe that. Yesterday, after visiting the Museum of the Revolution, we checked out a street food festival in Parcul Rozelor (the rose garden). Yes, oh-so-trendy “street food” has landed in Timișoara. The festival was sponsored by a bank or insurance company or something awful like that, and it was all basically overpriced mall food. You could hardly get a sandwich for four quid. We couldn’t get away quick enough.

This morning we’ll be going away, but where and how are still very much up in the air. I’m not looking forward to negotiating Timișoara traffic in a strange car on a strange side of the road. I’ll be meeting them at their hotel in just over an hour.

Last Saturday I met up with my student. We had a few drinks at a bar on the storm-stricken bank of the Bega. We spoke Romanian. I sometimes accidentally invented a word like “profesorile”, which she thought was funny.

Watching coverage of the New Zealand election last weekend and seeing people like John Campbell and Russel Norman, I got ever so slightly homesick for the first time since I left a year ago.

I might be starting my new job on Tuesday. More on that next time perhaps, but I’ve really got to go.

Time zones

There’s a lot to get through so please bear with me.

Summer ended last Sunday afternoon and I thought the world might end with it. A freak storm whirled through, splitting tree trunks down the middle, lifting tiles from rooftops, and smashing windows. Debris swirled as if in a washing machine. A large copper sheet flew off the cathedral, whose clock stopped at 3:31. After only 15 minutes, all was calm. I was so lucky to be inside at the time. Tragically eight people lost their lives including five in Timiș district. One person was killed at the zoo by a falling tree, another by the large overhead sign at one of the entrances to Timișoara that crashed down on his car as he was driving. The storm was unforecast; people were just enjoying their Sunday afternoon.

As the storm hit I was making some animal cards for my latest student, a 4½-year-old girl. I’m not sure exactly where my teaching comfort zone is yet, but kindergarten-aged girls aren’t even on the same continent. On Monday I made my way to Dumbrăvița for a one-hour lesson with Alexandra, armed with my animal cards, number cards, and a simple board game that I’d painstakingly drawn out. Alexandra was lovely. But she was shy and didn’t want anything to do with me. When her mother’s request for her to come downstairs was met with “De ce?” (“Why?”) I knew I was in for a tough time. Teaching quickly became secondary to the task of making any sort of connection. Sadly I didn’t have much success. Both her parents were there, and that only made me more self-conscious. Of course, being the first lesson, I didn’t know what she knew, even in her native language. She did know her colours and farm animals in English. Next time (apparently there will be a next time) I’ll probably just bring my laptop and put on some cartoons.

There was a funny moment in one of my lessons on Wednesday. This was my 34th lesson with my first-ever student. We’d done plenty of reading, listening and speaking since November but very little writing. I had three subjects face-down on sheets of paper, and asked him to pick one at random and write about it. “Write about someone you admire.” He didn’t particularly fancy this topic. I told him he could do one of the others instead, but he said, “They’ll all be the same shit.” He was half-joking, and in the end wrote quite a moving paragraph about his aunt.

Yesterday I had a three-hour lesson with a woman just two years younger than me. She was 15 minutes late, which is good going for her. We had what I’d like to think was a fun and productive lesson. Pronunciation Battleships (a game I basically invented) raised a few laughs. It’s like normal Battleships, except the coordinates are pairs of words that almost nobody in the whole of Romania can pronounce, so instead of a square being B3 or F5, it’s roughqueue or bought–fruit. I certainly get some interesting pronunciations of “queue”: I’ve so far had kway, kwee and kwee-wee. I gave her a writing exercise: she had to write about a country she’d like to visit. She picked Australia, full of mountains, museums, castles and beautiful villages. I was flummoxed by this; I didn’t twig that she meant Austria. It was tipping it down outside and I mentioned to her that I had to take the bus to Dumbrăvița for my next lesson (with Matei). At the end of the lesson she offered to drive me there, but only after she did some stuff in town. This was awkward for me – there was obviously no way I’d get to my lesson on time once she’d done her stuff, but she didn’t see that teaching is my job, and being on time for my job is important to me. I’d rather have taken the bus, but I felt it was impolite to refuse her offer. Even the clock in her car was three to four minutes slow – that would drive me insane (a stopped clock or one that showed an obviously wrong time would be much better because I could simply ignore it). I was 15 minutes late, but neither Matei nor his dad seemed to be too bothered. Even though my 35-year-old student lives on a different time zone to me, we get on well. I’ve invited her out for a drink tomorrow at three, so if I leave at ten past I should have heaps of time.

By then, a picture should have emerged from New Zealand’s election. I haven’t followed the run-up much the last three years have seen so many high-profile elections and referendums that I feel electioned out but from what I can tell, people have been far more engaged than last time around. The Jacinda effect is surely a part of that. And this time serious issues that actually matter to people are getting talked about, unlike in that ghastly 2014 campaign. The massive and increasing gap between rich and poor, the housing crisis, immigration, the mental health crisis (let’s not mince words here), education (the burden on teachers in NZ increases every year and they don’t get paid nearly enough), the dairy industry messing up the environment there’s a lot that’s badly wrong. I still expect National to form a government, just.

Some friends from St Ives are coming to Timișoara on Tuesday and are staying for a week. On Friday we’ll head off in a car and go… to be honest we’ve got no idea where. They’ve never been to Romania before, so I probably need to decide. They’re very free-spirited people so it should be fun.

Mum and Dad have both had the flu lately and haven’t been able to shake it off. It’s been sending Dad’s warfarin levels all over the show. They’ve just been put on courses of antibiotics. Let’s hope they do the trick.

Trying to shtring something together

I meant to post this on Sunday but the internet on this laptop slowed to a trickle. It’s back to its world-famous-in-Romania lightning pace now, which is just as well because without decent internet I struggle to do my job properly. My internet woes sent me into a mad panic yesterday so I tried to relax a bit by heading to the pool (the temperature was in the low 30s). Going to the pool, or the ștrand as they call it here, is quite a popular pastime. It’s not as if we have a beach here. It’s a bit hard to say ștrand. At the start of the word you have to shtring together a bunch of consonants à la John Key with his “shtrong and stable”, but with a Romanian-style rolled R thrown in for good measure. Ștrudel and albaștri (the masculine plural form of “blue”) likewise require tongue gymnastics for me. For 17 lei you get to lie on a sun lounger and listen to slightly annoying music. I positioned myself as far from the speakers as I could get. The pool is great though. I met two English women there, probably in their fifties. One of them introduced herself as Marilyn but her friend called her Mazz.

FaceTime. Presumably it’s called that because the person on the other end can see your face all the time. That can be a bugger, especially when that person is my mum. She likes to comment on the chubbiness of my face. For some reason that’s where the weight goes, and I probably did put on a pound or two last week from all the plum crumble I ate. The previous weekend I picked about eight kilos of plums, from a tree-lined street not too far from Mehala market.

Today I had my 30th lesson with Matei. He made a couple of inspired guesses in the Millionaire game before getting greedy and bombing out on the half-million-pound question. Then he thrashed me 5-0 in Last Card. Yesterday was the start of his new year at school. His school is number 24. When he lived in Bucharest, he went to number 56. I imagine this fantastically creative naming scheme harks back to the communist era, when they wouldn’t have wanted anybody to stand out. There still would have been a number 1 though.

Two pieces of brother-related news. One, he got whisked off to the Caribbean at two hours’ notice to help with the fallout from Hurricane Irma. I’m guessing it’s the British Virgin Islands. Second, his wedding has been set for 26th May at the Royal Citadel in Plymouth. That’s a pretty awesome location for a wedding if you ask me, not that I’m the best person to ask. It should be relatively inexpensive too. If he’d married the last one I dread to think what it would have cost. She’d have wanted all the bells, whistles and gongs, that’s for sure.

Last week I received the sad news that Out of Sync, a Wellington-based group where adults on the autistic spectrum meet up once a fortnight, is coming to an end. Although I’ve never had a diagnosis, I went to the group from 2011 until the end of 2015. When I first went it was bloody great: eight or so slightly unusual folks pinging wildly from one conversation topic to the next, like a demented pinball machine. After a distinctly uncomfortable Monday at work, I could relax for a couple of hours. Then the numbers grew, new facilitators took over, and before long it had changed beyond all recognition. It had become a sort of workshop, with rules and pre-arranged topics. The higher-functioning members of the group got sick of being treated like kids, and a lot of them quit. But it still gave autistic people the chance (often the only chance) to meet others in a relatively safe environment, so it served a purpose. Next Monday will be the last session. The email I received cited general dissatisfaction with the group, the fact that they would need to move yet again, and the big one, reduced funding. That New Zealand, second in the OECD in X and third in Y, can’t afford to run a group like that is all kinds of wrong.

Birocrație

It’s a bit of a frustrating day: outside it’s wet; inside I’ve had no running water since I got up this morning. I’ve had to use one of the water fountains in town. Like most people here, I normally use the fountains anyway to collect drinking water.

Talking of frustration, back in June (or perhaps earlier) I managed to lose my registration certificate. That’s the crappy-looking A5 sheet of paper, no thicker than a sheet of newspaper, that officially allows me to stay in the country. My best guess is that I left it at the doctor’s surgery when I saw the ENT specialist and had to present and fill in a bewildering amount of paperwork on three different floors. Until last week I survived perfectly well without the piece of paper, relying on my passport, but having an actual employer changed things. (I still don’t know when I actually start the new job.)

On Tuesday morning I went to the immigration office, quite a grim place with yellowing, peeling sheets of paper stuck to the walls. It seemed I could get a replacement certificate without much hassle, but I’d need to get one or two things photocopied and come back the next day because the office would soon be closing (it’s only open from 9 till 10, and you have to queue). Day two: I got there well before 9am with my photocopies and was almost at the front of the queue. Great. But no, apparently I also needed to make a declaration that I’d lost my original certificate. How and where would I do that? Take Ionescu, the bloke at the office told me. (“Take” here is not the very common English word, but instead the first name of a Mr Ionescu who is now immortalised by having a long street in Timișoara named after him. It’s pronounced “tackay”, more or less. It’s an unusual word because the letter K doesn’t normally feature in Romanian at all.) He told me, in English, that it was “near the judge”. Near the court, I guessed. I knew Take Ionescu had a bunch of official buildings but I drew a complete blank. Back to the office, which thankfully was still open. An actual address, please. This time he told me I needed to go to Piața Unirii and walk down Take Ionescu to get there. OK. I found the notar (notary public) where I had to make two declarations, the first to say that I could read and write enough Romanian to understand the second. Initially I was quoted 95 lei for this, and even though it cost me just 60 in the end, I can’t stand wasting any amount of money.

Day three: back to the office. I was lucky not to have any lessons before 10am all week. I had my photo taken and had to sign something electronically (the only sophistication in the whole office). Day four (yesterday): I got my new piece of paper. Phew. But wait, look at the validity date! 6th September 2022. That’s five years from last Wednesday, not five years from my original communication. Does that mean I could pull this trick over and over, and live in Romania indefinitely? I’ve now photocopied the new piece of paper and filed away the new original in a safe place where I, er, can’t possibly lose it.

A week on Monday I’ll have my first lesson with a girl of just four and a half. She lives in Dumbrăvița, a few minutes’ walk from the nine-year-old boy I teach. It’s a shame I’m unable to schedule back-to-back lessons with them, but kids who still attend kindergarten need their sleep. This teaching thing is certainly presenting me with some challenges, but none that I’m not willing to accept.

Last week the Red Sox won a monumental six-hour, 19-inning game over the Blue Jays. It might just have been the fillip they needed. I’ve been reading a bit more about the 2004 World Series-winning Red Sox, and watching a few YouTube clips. What a motley, unkempt bunch they were! They were fallible, they were human. The Yankees on the other hand were slick, professional, clean-shaven, and that contrast only helped endear the Red Sox to the public. Of course the team from Boston hadn’t won the big prize for absolutely ages and were trying to clamber out of an almost impossibly deep hole in the series; it all made for a great story.

Amazingly normal

Yes, I’ve got the job at the language school and I’m trying to sort the contract out now. I’m not exactly au fait with Romanian legalese and all the various acts and declarations and what have you. Assuming everything does get signed off, I still don’t know when I’ll start, what I’ll be doing precisely, or indeed whether I’ll be any good at it. What I do know is how much I’ll get paid, and it isn’t a lot. It’s marginally less than I get from my private one-on-one lessons. But taking the job should have all kinds of long-term benefits, so I’m excited to have the opportunity. I’d have to go back to 2004 for the last time I felt excited at being offered a job, and in that case the excitement wore off inside 24 hours. As for the job with the council, I wasn’t excited so much as relieved to be getting an increased salary and, more importantly, turning my back on the insurance industry.

Now that August is behind us, the one-on-one lessons are picking up again, or in yesterday’s case, two-on-one. I had my first lesson with a young couple, aged just 20 and 21. It wasn’t easy because he was at a much higher level than her and had far more confidence. She has highly ambitious plans to be near-fluent by next summer, so I’ll have my work cut out.

I’ve lived in Romania for almost a year, and now it all feels incredibly normal. I have no desire to go back home, wherever home even is. New Zealand is a great country but what would I do if I went back there? After going through the motions for so long, here in Romania I feel relaxed, comfortable in my own skin, alive! Slowly but surely I’m going somewhere I actually want to be. It’s bloody amazing really. I’m proud of myself for having the courage to completely change my life, but I’m also very lucky. Most people just aren’t in a position to do what I’ve done.

This morning it looked like the big Badea Cârțan market had disappeared. Oh no! But not to worry; it had just moved to Piața Traian for three months while Badea Cârțan is being renovated. The markets are great at this time of year, with stalls practically overflowing with bell peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes weighing up to a kilo each. There were also plenty of homegrown apples, some that wouldn’t have made the cut when I was a kid (I used to sell apples from our trees). As always there were lots of cheeses, but so far they’ve been a bit disappointing. Here you can buy many varieties of cow, sheep and goat cheeses but they look and taste surprisingly similar. Finally this week I chanced upon a sheep cheese that had a much richer, farmier flavour.

New Zealand’s latest suicide figures came out early this week. They are ugly reading, and to make matters worse, nobody quite knows why New Zealand has such a high suicide rate. It’s probably a combination of reasons. But one thing’s for sure: the cutbacks to mental health services that the country has seen under the present government have been inexcusable.

New job

This is a very quick post to say that I got the job. I don’t know when I’ll start, how many students I’ll have, how many hours a week I’ll have, or many details at all. But I’m pretty happy with the news nonetheless.

Today is also the 20th anniversary of Princess Diana’s death. I heard about it on a Malaysia Airlines flight: Mum and I were flying into Kuala Lumpur on the way back from New Zealand.

I’ll write more tomorrow.