A new box, perhaps

It looks like I might have bought a flat. On Tuesday I met up with the owner, a very bronzed lady in her forties, and asked her about the heating and why there are massive mirrors, covering entire walls, in what will hopefully be my teaching room. She said she used to run gym classes in there. I offered her €110,000, just €3k more than my previous offer, and later that afternoon the agent came back to me to say she’d accepted. (The original price was €120k, which she then lowered to €115k.) I now have about eight more questions I wish I’d asked her. With this property lark, there are monsters everywhere, as I know full well. The process shouldn’t take too long – this isn’t the UK, with such horrors as chains and gazumping – but what do I know about buying in Romania, really? I’m using a solicitor who has decided to take the whole week off after Orthodox Easter. Then there’s the question of getting the money across from New Zealand. Obviously the property stuff will be front and centre in my life for the next little while.

I’ve just read this long article about public phone boxes in the UK. The old red ones are a symbol of Britishness; I imagine one next to a parish council notice board or a village green, near a cylindrical post box of the same colour. I don’t know what it is about that shade of red, which was also the colour of the old Routemaster double-decker buses. When I was growing up, our front door was that colour too, and I remember my brother and I being disappointed when Dad decided to paint it green. Some of them have been converted to mini libraries, or now house defibrillators; many more have been removed. I remember them stinking of pee and cigarettes. I last used one as recently as 2016 when I washed up in the UK with no way of making a call on my mobile. I tried calling my aunt but each time I got her answer phone which was useless to me.

Snooker. I stayed up far too late last night to watch John Higgins edge over the line in a deciding 25th frame against Jack Lisowski. These evening sessions can run and run, and I’m two hours ahead of Sheffield where it all takes place. Today the semi-finals start. These are three-day matches, played over a gruelling best of 33 frames. Ronnie O’Sullivan will play John Higgins, while Mark Williams takes on the delightfully (!) named Judd Trump. It’s a heavyweight line-up, all right. O’Sullivan, Higgins, and Williams all turned professional way back in 1992 and have all won multiple titles. It seemed they’d been around for ages even when I stopped watching 19 years ago. Trump won in 2019 and is supremely talented too. O’Sullivan will surely be the crowd favourite. I’ll watch a frame or two – but no more than that – tonight.

It’s a drizzly, grey old day today, reminiscent of the Land of Red Boxes.

An Easter big break

I’ve had my latest Skype lesson with the eight-year-old girl in Germany. I needed a glass of wine after that. Next time I might have it before.

It’s the end of the long Orthodox Easter weekend here. I worked all of the four days, though less than usual. It’s been nice not being hassled by estate agents.

Yesterday (Easter Sunday) I cycled to Sânmihaiu Român. I thought nothing would be open but there was a bar which served barbecue food. I sat on a bench and read the first chapters of Sapiens by Yuval Noah Harari. If the beginning is anything to go by, it’ll be the best book I’ve read in a long time. I had to give up when some inconsiderate twat decided to pump out music on his boombox. I then went to the bar and waited a very Romanian length of time for my barbecued pork and wedges. It’s frustrating when you’re on your own, as I so often am.

Saturday night was the Easter vigil, a huge event here. People turned out in their hordes shortly before midnight for a service that carried on into the small hours. They seemed desperate to partake in it again, after two years when Covid put paid to the whole thing. I ventured over from outside the cathedral (there was no hope of getting inside) to the church at Iosefin, across the river, but the scenes were even more chaotic there. At that point I figured I’d rather watch the snooker instead, then later when the crowds had thinned out I entered the cathedral (with my requisite candle) to see what the fuss was all about. I now know that the reply to “Hristos a înviat!” (Christ is risen!) is “Adevărat a înviat!” (Indeed, He is risen!). Many Orthodox Christians use these greetings in place of “hello” at Easter time.

Snooker. I’m watching the World Championship, after 19 years of not following the game. I used to be glued to the screen all through late April, then I moved to New Zealand where there was no TV coverage, and that was that. If the last few days are anything to go by, I’ve missed a lot. It’s such a deep game. An innocuous cannon on a brown can have unexpected ramifications down the line. One frame can easily last forty minutes or more, then the next can be over in ten. The match between Mark Selby and Yan Bingtao, which Yan won 13-10, featured a monumental 85-minute frame, the longest ever in 46 years of the tournament and the likes of which I’d never seen before. Selby, the clear favourite, had come from 11-7 behind to close to within one, which heightened the tension even more in the 22nd frame. After Yan eked it out, he then coolly knocked in a break of 112 in the following frame to wrap up an utterly absorbing match. It’s been great to see all these new players, especially those from outside the Anglosphere like Noppon Saengkham this afternoon, whose handshake after his defeat by John Higgins was quite wonderful.
Update: Neil Robertson has just compiled a maximum 147 break in his match with Jack Lisowski. I remember Jimmy White’s one (1992 I think), then Stephen Hendry’s, then Ronnie O’Sullivan’s iconic whirlwind one, but I only ever saw those after the event. They were extremely rare back then. This one I saw live, and Robertson made it look easy. He was in a deep hole half an hour ago, but from 10-7 down and looking decidedly scratchy, he’s now level at 10-10 in a race to 13.
Update 2: Lisowski has won in a nervy deciding frame, after Robertson had almost won in the frame before. What drama.

Happy Easter

My birthday – another one – was on Wednesday. It was just a normal day for me; I didn’t even see anybody face-to-face except when I looked at yet another apartment. (That decision isn’t getting any easier. I’m glad it’s now the long Orthodox Easter weekend, so agents are unlikely to hassle me for a few days.)

Yesterday I had my last lesson with a 16-year-old girl. Her mother had contacted me the day before to say that it would be the last one. We’d had some good and productive sessions in the last few months, so seeing the clock tick down on our final meeting was rather sad.

The weekend before last, I went to Lake Surduc with Mark (the teacher) and his dog (or really his girlfriend’s dog). It’s funny how I see him quite often but haven’t seen his girlfriend since around Christmas. She probably doesn’t like me. I can imagine their conversations. “I suppose you’ll be seeing your mate this weekend, then.” “I might do.” “God, he’s so boring!” “He isn’t really. And you don’t exactly like trudging through mud, do you?” Maybe she’s just very conscientious and spends her Sundays making lesson plans for the following week like my mother used to do. Anyway, Surduc is about an hour’s drive away. I’d been there once before, when my friends from St Ives came over in 2017, but we didn’t stop apart from to ask locals if there was any nearby accommodation. This time they’d clearly had a deluge of rain overnight – it was extremely muddy. There was no path around the lake, so you had to clamber through the adjoining wood. There were plenty of ups and downs. We passed shepherds on their small farms, and at one point we were met by six menacing dogs that had come from the farm below. On the shore of the lake we saw dozens of four-pointed (tetrahedral) seed pods that looked like medieval weapons. These came from water chestnut trees. We also saw some rather large shells. I had to cycle to his place in Dumbrăvița and back, and I later played two sets of tennis, so I managed to burn off some calories that day.

Some of those spiky seed pods
A shell and a muddy Doc Marten

Today is Orthodox Good Friday, or as they call it here, Vinerea Mare (“Big Friday”). I’ve just had a lesson with a lady in Bucharest, and I’m about to try and make a Romanian-style marble cake, following a video on Youtube (in Romanian) that has had ten million views. Easter is a much bigger deal here than in most of the English-speaking world, and it seems relatively free of commercialisation. It’s a family occasion, with a lot of traditional food. It’s the only time of year that Romanians normally eat lamb – as well as roasting the meat, they use the innards to make drob, a kind of loaf that also has an egg inside. There’s the usual sarmale and salată de boeuf, then for dessert they have various cakes including pască, which is made with sweet cheese.

After a nice run of final tables (but no wins, dammit) I withdrew $1375 from my PokerStars account. Of course I didn’t quite get all of that because they hit you with a withdrawal fee and an exchange rate margin that adds up to nearly 5% (or at least it did in my case). I’ve now got $719 sitting in my account. Maybe I should have withdrawn the whole lot and ended this unproductive distraction for good, but the SCOOP tournament series is coming up soon, so I thought I’d at least try my hand at that.

This was the scene outside my window last night, following a screech of tyres and metal. I don’t think anyone was badly hurt.

The elephant in the room

Now for a monster post (sorry it’s so long) about something I haven’t written about before. I’m probably autistic.

I’ve never had a diagnosis. I’ve been label-free my whole life. When I started school on 4th September 1984, at the ridiculously young and typically British age of 4 years and 4½ months, I had little interest in what the other kids were doing – I just sat in the corner on my own – and changing in and out of clothes for PE lessons was a problem. I could do it, but it took me ages. My teacher – who was very pleasant, I thought – called my parents to ask what was wrong with me. Mum didn’t take kindly to this, so she asked her to get me to read something. I could read quite a lot. Um, yes, your son has a reading age of nine.

This was still pre-Rain Man, so autism wasn’t really “a thing” yet, and anyway my parents didn’t want me branded for life, as they saw it. My early childhood was a happy one, but in my teenage years and beyond I became an expert in tamely going through the motions. I did the remainder of school, then I did university (my first year was a nightmare because I couldn’t hide, but things improved after that), then in 2003 I moved from the UK to New Zealand where I did a job in the financial sector. I rarely knew why I was doing what I was doing, and my level of emotional attachment hovered close to zero. The only exception was a spell of about a year when I calculated insurance quotes; I almost enjoyed that. It was a process that made sense to me. Then it was back to the other stuff. In 2007 I rented a flat on my own, and with a couple of short exceptions (taking on flatmates to help pay a mortgage – not a great idea for me) I’ve lived by myself ever since.

I stuck with my job because I wasn’t badly paid. Sometimes I wondered how I got paid at all given how little I achieved. But all the time I was building some monstrous edifice without any foundation (friends, a home, a semblance of identity) to underpin it. By 2008 it occurred to me that I was supposed to have moved on by now. My similar-aged colleagues were discussing house prices and stag dos and non-rust-bucket cars. Some of them were even having kids. I fitted in less and less at work, and before long I’d mentally checked out of there. I suffered regular bouts of depression. In early ’09 I started a blog called Fixed and Floating (named after the types of mortgages that my colleagues spent hours yapping about, but also because that described my situation rather well), and later that year I started attending meet-ups for autistic adults, initially because it was a field I could see myself working in. I remember the first session, and what an uplifting experience that was.

Moving on is something people almost take for granted. A car, a house, a job, a better car, a bigger house, promotion, and of course children who you’ll help to get bigger and better cars, jobs and houses. The route is all nicely mapped and sat-navved, even if it may be bumpy and potholey. At school I learnt about the seven (or was it eight) stages of man, as if they were a given. I don’t remember there being Ts & Cs. One thing I noticed about the (often wonderful) people I met at the autism group, even the most high-functioning of them, is that they didn’t move on. How could they? Imagine a traditional wedding for an autistic person. How are a hundred-odd guests going to magically materialise? A minority of those who attended the group, like me, could drive a car (an extremely useful skill to have if you want to avoid people), some had jobs, a few were in relationships, but the sense of progression was universally absent. Bad stuff, on the other hand, happened just as easily to them as to anyone else, if not more so. If you’re autistic, it seems the road isn’t bumpy so much as you’re driving an 1100 cc Austin Allegro – you struggle to climb the gentlest of hills, but you’re very capable of dropping off a cliff. (I’ve had literal nightmares about school reunions, which are all about moving on and making comparisons. Luckily, I don’t expect I’ll ever have to attend one.)

Mercifully I got out of my job at the end of 2009, and I spent the next few months either at the beach or playing online poker or creating word puzzles. In the middle of 2010 I visited the UK and Europe, seeing my grandmother for the last time. That’s all still on my old blog. I worked for a while on insurance claims from the major earthquakes that had hit New Zealand – a temp job, which was great, because it meant I cut out all the stressful social crap – but then for some inexplicable reason (my mother?) I relocated to another city to take a permanent job that I didn’t even want, and that was an utterly predictable disaster. I was useless at the job, and when I was depressed, which was most of the time, I became worse than useless. I couldn’t keep my job, so I took on a different role at the same company that paid barely half as much, just after taking out a mortgage on an apartment. The flat itself was condemned because it was an earthquake risk. Barrels of fun all round, I must say. I escaped the financial world in 2014 to enter the realm of pipes and manholes instead, and that was a useful stopgap while I figured out what I actually wanted to do.

In 2015 I managed to visit the US – my first overseas trip since 2010 – and I came back from there on a major high. That’s when I started this blog. Then I figured it out. I wanted to teach English in Romania. That’s mostly because I became besotted with the beautiful Romanian language, but also because I felt the country itself would make me happy. Britain was a member of the EU at the time, so it was feasible. I was able to rent out my crappy apartment. So towards the end of 2016, after more bouts of depression and a certain high-profile referendum, I made the move. I flew from New Zealand to the UK, then took the train to Timișoara, which is where I’ve lived for the last 5½ years.

I tried knocking on the door of just about every language school in Timișoara but had no luck getting work, so I put up posters all over the city and started getting phone calls. Although I’d spent some time studying Romanian it wasn’t easy to understand what my prospective students were saying on the phone. Slowly but surely, though, I got snippets of work here and there, and when I wasn’t working I could explore my beautiful new city. The parks, the markets, the squares, the clattering old trams. A few of my ads showed a picture of the newly elected Donald Trump. One young woman who replied to the Trump ad and started lessons with me worked for an estate agency. At this point I was in need of somewhere permanent to live. She found me a flat slap-bang in the middle of town with wonderful views, and at Christmas time I moved in. It was in an ugly communist-style concrete block, but it felt like heaven. I enjoyed my work a lot – I had my own systems and processes – but it wasn’t until the autumn of 2017, when the kids went back to school, that I really got my hours up. Suddenly I was pretty busy. I wasn’t making tons of money, but I could certainly get by, and my job suited me down to the ground. An open-plan office and everything that entails was hell for me, but a one-on-one lesson was actually quite enjoyable. Plus I was helping somebody. Amazingly, I was depression-free.

That’s been me ever since. In the last two years we’ve had Covid to deal with. It has taken a heavy toll here in Romania where about half the population are unvaccinated. Covid caused a few problems for me workwise initially, but they were solved once people got used to the idea of online lessons. In fact I quite liked the initial lockdown because it was so peaceful and quiet and people’s expectations went way down. The way to dodge the virus was to avoid people as much as possible! Coming out of the pandemic is proving more of a challenge for me, however. Every time another piece of melamine or MDF falls off the inside of this messy tired-looking flat, it reminds me that I need to move on, somehow, but I’m seriously lacking in motivation. My plan is to buy a place where I can run a proper teaching business, and then get a car so I can travel around the country more easily, but it’s hard to know where to start. I’m on my own, in Romania, flying blind. Donald Rumsfeld-style question marks hang over every apartment I look at. Things I don’t know about, and more that I don’t know I don’t know about. There’s also my parents and my brother whom I haven’t seen in absolutely bloody ages. Should I sort out a flat before seeing them?

I’ll be 42 next week. I remember on my 21st birthday that my mother said I’d get a girlfriend soon. I replied, “You’ll be saying that on my 42nd birthday too.” And here I am. I’ve missed out on so much – relationships, careers, a sense of home and belonging, being part of something bigger – because of who I am. My undiagnosed condition. All I can do is keep battling away.

Sunshine today, and boy do we need it

The news from Ukraine has become almost too horrifying to watch. This evening my student said he’s thinking of moving to Portugal – as far away as possible from the terror while remaining in Europe.

I had a look at another flat today. It was close to the centre, in a building with a courtyard, constructed in 1900. It’s the first time I’ve looked at a properly old place. It was great, but in a higher price bracket than anything I’d seen before. Would it be worth the money? I really haven’t a clue.

This flat search isn’t getting any easier. I can’t help but be intimidated by estate agents, even if they’re nowhere near as predatory as the ones I remember from New Zealand. Then if the current occupants are also there when I look around, I generally lose interest and want to leave. I plan to look at one more flat this weekend, and if that doesn’t quite work out, I’ll go back to the place I made the offer on three weeks ago.

I read that Ashley Bloomfield, who masterminded New Zealand’s response to coronavirus for two years, has resigned. I can’t say I blame him.

After I wrote my last post, I went for a bike ride after being stuck inside all day, and promptly got stuck in a hailstorm. The weather has improved markedly since then; today was a glorious spring day.

A majestic tree at dusk. You can see the cathedral at bottom right.
The Bega flanked by magnolias this lunchtime, from the Traian Bridge
The building containing the flat I looked at today
The view from a flat I looked at on a gloomy Saturday, with the river and the new church. I’d be happy with that.
The Salamon Brück building — or palace — in Piața Unirii
A rhyming message at the bike stand at Kaufland. Romanians love things to rhyme.

How times — and words — change

We had beautiful weather at the start of last week with temperatures in the 20s, but we’ve been plunged right back into winter on 3rd April. We even had a light flurry of snow earlier today. Tennis has been impossible this weekend. What a turnaround.

I’ve got my new Samsung phone. I’m enjoying the extra real estate of a 6.5-inch screen, the battery lasts what feels like ages after my recent iPhone experience, and the camera does its job. The bad news is that I’m constantly monkeying around with settings to stop it from doing really maddening things, and failing almost every time, but at least I have a working phone. On Monday or Tuesday or whatever day it was, I FaceTimed my parents for the last time on my old phone; when I hung up, the battery percentage was way down into single figures, and no book no matter how heavy would keep the cable in place for it to charge. Damn. What about my contacts? My students and stuff? I’d tried importing them before with no success, so now there was only one thing for it: I scribbled down all the names and numbers as fast as I could before the battery went dead, which it did 15 minutes afterwards, and then tapped them all into my new phone manually.

Some people are easy to teach. Others aren’t. The eight-year-old girl I see on Skype each week is firmly in the latter category. Seriously, what am I supposed to do with her for an hour? What can I even give her that she can’t already get from YouTube? (I know she watches a lot of YouTube videos.) You’re bored, she told me on Friday, in the second half of the session when her father was (annoyingly) present. You’re telling me I’m boring, aren’t you? No, she doesn’t mean that, her father assured me. Of course not. Yeah, right. None of this is her fault, and I can only imagine what primary school teachers went through when they taught online during the pandemic.

Yesterday morning I had my maths lesson with Matei. We’re going through past “checkpoint” papers, which are exams they give you in the UK at age 14 but don’t immediately count for anything. (He’s going through the British system.) At the start of the session his mother gave me icre – fish-egg paste on pieces of bread, and doboș, a Hungarian layered cake. At ten in the morning, I had to work my way up to the icre, like edging into sea water that I know is too cold, but I finally took the plunge and it was fine. The doboș was delicious. After the session, his parents told me about an online influencer who knew all kinds of magic tricks to get people to view your content, and I was made to watch a video about him on their smart TV. Mercifully, it was only a few minutes long. What makes you think I should see this?

I looked at another property yesterday, and will get to see one more tomorrow. The owner of the place – a lady in her seventies and no more than five foot tall – was lovely. She seemed a typical older Romanian woman, with all her preserves jarred and labelled in the pantry. Talking to older Romanians gives me a fascinating window on their lives, and makes a nice change from hearing about ambitious career plans and trips to Greek islands.

I’ve been watching a weird series on Netflix, with a weirdly long title to match: The Woman in the House Across the Street from the Girl in the Window. Some exercises I did last week on car parts made me think of some other weirdly long titles from the recently (and sadly) departed Meat Loaf: I’d Do Anything for Love (But I Won’t Do That), and Objects in the Rear View Mirror May Appear Closer Than They Are. Both those songs were on the hugely successful Bat Out of Hell II album, which came out when I was a teenager.

This was my attempt at yesterday’s Wordle:

I was lucky to get so close with my second guess, but as for the actual solution, I thought, when did people start using this word? Luckily, there’s something called Google Ngrams which shows you how word frequencies have changed over time in printed material. You can even compare words, such as trope and tripe. Trope has indeed exploded in my lifetime:

Below is how the spelling of the country I live in has changed in English over two centuries. I certainly prefer the current spelling, which only took over in the 1970s. Note how mentions of Romania (spelt in any way) peaked during the Ceaușescu era, and dropped off a bit in the 1990s.

My mother still sometimes refers to the sort of computer you hold in your hand, like the one I’ve just bought, as a telephone:

It used to be unprintable, didn’t it? It’s now six times as printable as it was at the turn of the century.