You can wait

I spent half of yesterday doing something I didn’t want to do (trying to find a courier) so I could do something else I didn’t want to do (send my signed sale agreement and associated documents to my lawyer in Wellington). At one office a lady quoted me 330 lei (about NZ$120) for an estimated delivery time of two weeks. Sorry, what? Did I hear that Romanian number correctly? Trei sute treizeci? Doamne. After biking here, there and everywhere, and finding offices had been relocated to other parts of the city, I found a place that could get it to NZ in two days for $100. It was 5:05 by then, and too late for them to send it. I’d have to wait till the morning. But then I thought, that’s still bloody ridiculous. Bugger the body corporate committee and their fake urgency. Who knows when they’ll even invoke the agreement. I popped it in the normal post today. That cost $10. They said it would be there in nine working days. I know we’re talking about property and six-figure sums—hopefully I’ll still get a six-figure sum if and when the place sells! I paid $354,000 for it 8½ years ago—but I couldn’t handle the principle of blowing a hundred bucks (for probably no reason) on sending a sodding envelope.

Yesterday I also had a genuinely urgent situation to deal with. This laptop was making a racket. I was sure it was the fan. (It has a solid-state hard drive.) If my laptop dies, I’m pretty seriously compromised, especially in the world of online lessons. I told four of my students that our lessons probably wouldn’t be happening. I backed up my data and in the morning I took it in to the repair shop down the road (just before Piața Bălcescu). In no time they had the back off. The thermal paste (which I’d only just learned about) had turned to dust, and two blades had detached from the fan. This will be expensive. And slow. Blow me down, at 3pm I got a phone call to say it had been repaired. It cost me 150 lei ($55). I’ll still need to source a fan from Ebay – it’s hard to get a replacement in Romania – and they’ll be able to fit it for me.

On Saturday I went on my first decent bike ride since we locked down in March. I did my usual trip to Sânmihaiu Român. I’d forgotten how noisy the Bega gets with all the frogs. Yeah, I do need to get myself a new bike.

On Friday morning I had coffee on the sunny balcony of one of my students. We spoke Romanian for an hour in a low-stress situation, and I felt a certain sense of pride at being able to communicate reasonably well in someone else’s language. It’s such a rewarding feeling, especially because Romanian is both beautiful and an unusual language for people to learn.

Mum was telling me that she’d been to the funeral of a woman I knew in Temuka. She would have been about 85. She was from an enormous Catholic family – ten children I think – but never had a family of her own. She was a very kind person, but quite shy. I went to see Whale Rider with her in Geraldine in March 2004, days before I moved up to Auckland to take that job. Apparently she had a habit of arriving at church late and leaving early – perhaps she didn’t want the conversation – and the priest joked that she was on time for once. Mum also recently went to her 95-year-old aunt’s funeral in Mosgiel – this was her mother’s younger sister.

New Zealand is at Level 1. They seem to have crushed Covid. Apart from the fact that it’s now hermetically sealed, everything is back to normal there. On the phone, my parents and I joke about NZ’s “smug level” (that’s after my aunt described NZ as being unduly smug about their low case numbers). Both my parents would prefer to be back at Level 4, I think. Dad’s migraines are an ongoing problem and he quite liked being unable to see anybody. As for Romania, we’re doing pretty well in Timiș with very few new cases, but in the rest of the country this thing sure isn’t going away. Around ten Romanians are dying every day on average.

Run out of road

If the world hadn’t been turned upside down, Mum and Dad would have been making their way here about now. It seems a lifetime ago that long-haul travel was even thinkable.

My grandmother (Dad’s mum) would have been 98 today. Ten years ago she was still around, thanks to the marvels of modern medicine, and I was staying with her in the UK. I took her to a pub in Houghton for a birthday lunch – it was deathly quiet. I wrote about my time with my grandmother – my last time, sadly, before she passed away in January 2012 – in my old blog, which I called Fixed and Floating.

Ah yes, Fixed and Floating. I called it that because (a) I supposedly had a life and a career but in reality I was directionless, and (b) I was living in New Zealand, a country obsessed with the housing market. At the time I was even living in Auckland, where the feeding frenzy was quite ludicrous. “Do you fix or float your mortgage?” was a common topic around the water cooler.

When I did buy my first property, I fixed part of my mortgage but had a revolving-credit facility for the rest, so I wouldn’t risk losing my flat if the house of cards (a.k.a. my job) caved in, which of course it did almost the moment I moved in. And now, eight years on, I’ve decided to sell my flat at a gigantic loss. A horrible decision, but I (and the other owners who didn’t want to sell originally) have finally run out of road. Every morning lately I’ve woken up to emails where people have written screeds, and I’ve been forced to take an interest in something I’m nowhere near thinking about caring about. I think the body corporate committee, especially the chair, secretly enjoy all the expansive language and officiousness. I’ve now had three Zoom meetings, including one on Monday that lasted an hour and 50 minutes. I won’t make Sunday’s deadline to sign, because of all the legal requirements, but the body corporate have said I’ll be OK if get all the wheels in motion. This morning I saw a notary public (in Romania this is simply called a notar) to certify my ID documents. Surprisingly she didn’t make me take off my mask – none of the pictures on my passports and driver’s licence look much like the current version of me, even maskless. It might take ages for us to sell (the pandemic won’t help), but in the meantime I’ll still receive rental income, and I’ll be able to concentrate on things I care about, like teaching, writing this book, learning a language or two, and maybe even travelling when that becomes an option again. It’s absolutely bloody awful but I just have to make the best of it.

On Tuesday I finally dared to visit the market, so I could buy some strawberries. They were very good.

In the danger zone (which is most of the world right now)

I spoke to Mum and Dad again this morning. They’re in New Zealand, one of the few shining beacons in a dark world, where (amazingly) new recoveries outnumbered new infections in the latest figures. They live in a pretty isolated part of an even more isolated country, and they’re coping well with the lockdown. But they’re scared shitless about me.

After talking to my sister-in-law last night, I felt sorry for her. She has to attend two hospitals (in Poole and Bournemouth) and see private patients. Lots of old people, who she could be infecting without knowing it. She can’t get tested unless either she or my brother shows symptoms. For the second day running, around 900 new deaths were recorded in the UK.

Today has been Romania’s deadliest day so far. The numbers have been surprisingly stable to this point, but the coming weeks are scary, in spite of the lockdown which must be helping greatly. I also wonder how many people these official figures might be excluding – Romanians have a habit of avoiding hospital if at all possible, and I imagine many have died at home. One bright spot is a jump in the number of recoveries.

The highlight of today was perhaps the chat I had with the lady who lives next door but one from me. She said my Romanian was “admirable”, then the next minute I said I had barrels of water in my bag. I forgot that big water bottles are bidoane, and said butoaie instead. Too many B-words, in both languages. She expressed a love of British culture, “but I don’t like the French”.

Plenty of political news amid all of this. There’s a new Labour leader in the UK (good), the Democratic nominee has been decided (good, but they all need to get behind him), and in more good news, it looks like Boris Johnson will be one of the lucky 50% who survive their stint in ICU with coronavirus.

The latest graph:

Romania coronavirus 9-4-20

Benford’s law

I’m going to start tonight’s post with a simple game. If you can guess how many Romanian lei are in my bank account, I’ll give you all of it. (In reality I won’t. I can’t. But just imagine for a second.) Actually, to make it easier, you don’t have to guess the full amount, but just the first digit. Given that there is some money in there, i.e. it’s not zero, what digit (from 1 to 9) do you choose? Maybe you’ll choose 5, because it’s in the middle. Perhaps you’ll pick 7, your favourite number. It really doesn’t matter, because they’re all just as likely as each other, right?

Wrong. With absolutely no other knowledge, you should absolutely pick 1. Always. I can guarantee that around the world, there are currently more bank balances with 1 as their first digit than any other. There are quite a few 2s too, but certainly not as many as 1s. A little further behind are 3s, and so on. Comparatively few begin with an 8, and even fewer with a 9.

You see this pattern over and over again. Population sizes (or areas) of towns, cities, or whole countries, lengths of rivers, volumes of lakes, market caps of companies, speakers of languages, vote counts, and so on. Anything that can exhibit a large range of values will show a very similar distribution of leading digits, skewed heavily towards the lower digits. (Not everything works this way, for instance the ages or heights of the people you work with.)

There’s a name for this phenomenon—it’s called Benford’s law—and it has even been used in forensic accounting. People have completely fabricated figures and come unstuck because what they thought were random-looking numbers started with unnaturally many 7s, 8s and 9s. The coronavirus pandemic—where cases increase exponentially—is a perfect example of Benford’s law in action. Look at the case figures for countries or regions and you’ll see a definite bias towards lower initial digits. Heck, you can even see it on my chart below.

As I was writing all of that, I got a phone call from the elderly lady who lives with her husband on the sixth floor. It was a pleasure to talk to her. She was replying to the note I’d sent her, asking if they needed any help with food or other essentials. She said they have people staying from outside the city (breaking the lockdown rules, but hey). Her prediction for the end of lockdown—1st May—is unfortunately wishful thinking. She asked me what my religion was, because it affects what version of Easter I celebrate. I get that question quite often and I always say that I’m a Catholic.

My aunt called me earlier today. She seemed extremely concerned, as if Romania had 4300 coronavirus deaths and the UK 150, instead of the other way round. It’s never that easy talking to her, because she doesn’t really listen. Still, she was thinking about me, and I appreciated that. She also lives on her own, so I’d better call her next weekend.

Here is the latest chart:

Coronavirus Romania 4-4-20

It’s happened so fast

That I could come to Romania 3½ years ago – a country I’d never set foot in before – and create a totally new life for myself was wonderfully mad, and only possible thanks to long-haul travel and supranational organisations. A month ago it was still possible, just. Now you can hardly go out your front door. The speed at which everything has shut down still feels extraordinary.

This morning I had a chat with my brother. They don’t want him anywhere near his workplace, and fair enough. Close contact with other people is just about unavoidable in his job. We talked about Brits who struggling to cope because they can no longer buy unnecessary crap.

Nothing to report, except to say that news coming out of the hospital in Suceava, which has now closed, is horrendous. Twenty-two people died there. Romania’s death total has soared to 65. I now have plotted the deaths on a separate chart from the confirmed cases, which are now close to 2000. (The real number of cases is surely several times that.) The chart of recoveries will be coming tomorrow, I hope.

Romania coronavirus cases 30-3-20
Romania coronavirus deaths 30-3-20

Some are more equal than others

I got out briefly this afternoon, just after I’d been up and down the stairs five times, and walked down the Bega a short distance. It was sunny and springlike and blissfully calm, with the willows lining the river and hardly a soul around. Then I had to come back. Any amount of “outside” has a certain level of guilt attached.

When I wrote last night’s post it was getting late, and I didn’t talk much about the conversations I’d had with my cousins. My cousin in Wellington put things in perspective – after bemoaning my inability to see my parents who live on the other side of the world, she said she couldn’t see her parents either, and they live in Timaru. She and her husband were impressed with the government’s handling of the crisis, although they wished they could have closed the borders a week or two earlier. I only saw the youngest of her three boys; he was wearing a onesie and seemed to be quite enjoying the lockdown.

My US-based cousin was about to play golf with his mates. Umm, should you be doing that? The golf course is even open? He talked about distancing and not touching the flag, but to me, golf just about epitomises “non-essential”. He talked about Trump using his daily media briefings to campaign for the election, while hundreds of Americans are dying from the virus every day.

Mum and Dad are pretty lucky. They can lock themselves down without really being locked down. They have a huge house (by my standards) and two acres to play with. They have money. In theory, these crises – earthquakes, floods, epidemics – are a leveller. Viruses don’t discriminate, you sometimes hear. Except they do. India, for instance, is now completely locked down. One point three billion people. But how do you lock down India? Where a huge proportion of the population lives practically on top of dozens of other people? Where if you don’t earn anything on a particular day, you don’t eat? The lockdown is admirable, but the reality is that untold numbers of very poor Indians will die as a result of the virus in the coming months, either directly or indirectly. Obviously this is an extreme example, but there are stark differences even within a country like New Zealand.

Every day you see or hear something that was perfectly normal until recently, but is now absurd. The buses and trams are still running here, and on the side of a tram this morning I saw a banner advertising “dream holidays” and “cruises like you see in films”.

Today I produced a coronavirus glossary for my students: about 75 terms from airborne to zoonotic, via hunker down and ramp up, complete with definitions and explanations. I hope they find it useful.

In Romania, I still can’t predict where this is going. The health minister resigned soon after making his crazy pronouncement that all two million inhabitants of Bucharest would be tested. The hospital in Suceava has been a disaster zone: nearly 100 doctors and nurses there have contracted the virus. There is a shortage of doctors, or should I say a shortage of good doctors, after so many of them have left the country. At times like these, a brain drain can be deadly. The good news is that if I must be in Romania, Timișoara is probably the best place in Romania to be.

The death toll in Romania is starting to mount. We are now at 43. More than 300 more people tested positive in the 24 hours before the latest figures were released, meaning we are very likely to break 2000 tomorrow. That number supposedly triggers a heightened alert level. In tomorrow’s update I will post two new charts, with figures for deaths (sadly) and recoveries.

Romania coronavirus cases 29-3-20

It’s so quiet

It’s quarter to eleven on a Saturday night, slap-bang in the middle of Romania’s third-biggest city. As I write this, I can hear an owl. Every now and then I can also hear a freight train rattling and whistling by on the other side of the park. I’ve never heard the trains before. The cathedral chime for “quarter to” seemed especially loud. Our clocks go forward tonight, in fact, but this year it’s a pointless exercise. Tomorrow it will get dark at close to 8pm, but somehow it’s as if the clock has struck thirteen.

Today I caught up with family – a long chat with my cousin and her husband in Wellington to begin with, then I Skyped another cousin who lives in New York State with his Italian wife (she assured me that her parents in northern Italy are OK), then finally I FaceTimed my parents. Family now seem more important than ever.

I popped my head out of the door just to fill up two water bottles in the park, and even that required a form to be filled in. When I got back I walked briskly up and down the stairs five times (640 steps up and 640 steps down), carrying those ten litres of water on my back.

The news is endlessly frightening. Deaths are now in five figures in Italy and four figures in the UK (and because they only seem to be counting those who die in hospital, the UK figures are probably understated). In Romania, eight more deaths have been confirmed today, taking the total to 34, while the latest increase in cases was at least on the small side.

Romania coronavirus cases 28-3-20

The calm before the storm?

I FaceTimed my parents this morning. That might be the only way I’ll get to see them for the foreseeable future. On a screen. Strapping themselves into a flying tube packed with 500-odd other poor souls, for roughly a day, might be out of the question long before they’re due to take off in late May. It’s sad, but there’s a very real chance I’ll miss them for the second summer in a row.

When the first Romanian cases of coronavirus presented themselves, my Biziday app alerted me with an ominous chime. For the next handful, only a message flashed up on my screen, which I often wouldn’t see until later. Now I’m not getting messages at all, and probably won’t unless and until somebody succumbs from the virus. So far “only” 15 cases have been confirmed in Romania including five in Timișoara, the same as in the whole of New Zealand. The level of panic is (so far) very low. Very occasionally I’ll see someone sporting a mask. At the supermarket this morning all the shelves were stacked with loo roll. Scented, quilted, embossed, polka-dotted, you name it, they stocked it.

The situation in Italy seems to be something approaching mayhem. This afternoon we had wet weather and I decided to watch the Serie A match between Parma and SPAL, which was a local derby of sorts. I hardly ever watch domestic football these days, but all Serie A matches are now being played behind closed doors, and I figured it would be a bit of a novelty to watch crowdless top-level football, live from Parma which I visited in 2010. At kick-off time all I could see was a large zoomed-in football in the centre of my screen. Apparently the players were on the pitch then, but the Italian Sports Minister had just made an announcement – he wanted games called off entirely, fans or no fans. The game did go ahead in the end, 75 minutes late, and SPAL won 1-0.

Lombardy and the surrounding regions, encompassing Bologna and Parma which were a pleasure for me to visit, are now sealed off. This is (or was) Italy’s economic powerhouse. The impending lockdown was leaked and chaos ensued. It’s been an awful day there, with 133 further deaths. The Wikipedia page on the outbreak in Italy now looks absurd – the initial cases, in their ones and twos, described in great detail, but the entry for 8th March simply states that more than 100 people died in Lombardy alone.

I read a piece by Paul Krugman, the Nobel Prize-winning economist, saying that when America is facing an epidemic on this scale, having this particular man-baby at the helm is dangerous. He’s dead right. It’s a shame someone like Krugman isn’t president.

In other news, my student has invited me on another trip to Cuntu (the name is still horrible) and/or Mount Țarcu, where I went last June. He’s planning it for next weekend. It’ll be a damn sight colder than it was then, so I’ve really got to make sure I’m properly prepared. I bought some boots, a bag and some wet-weather gear from Decathlon, the go-to place for this stuff, without completely breaking the bank, but still need a warmer sleeping bag. And absolutely no tinned food this time – there’s nowhere to cook it.

I mentioned to my parents that I’d browsed tents in Decathlon and was amazed just how much tent technology has come on. This prompted Mum to show me photos – the best she could on a grainy FaceTime screen – of our camping holiday in Northern Spain in 1988. Back then you could have a cheap, simple holiday by a Spanish beach without hordes of people. The trip did have its moments, though. Half-way through our three-week stay, my parents had the bright idea to visit Sitges, a resort near Barcelona where they’d clearly had a great time in the seventies before I and my brother came on the scene. Dad drove close to 400 miles, through the night, in his Mazda. Then when we arrived, Sitges had obviously changed. The sea was soup-like. My brother didn’t like to get his face wet, and Mum sensibly stayed out of trouble too. But Dad and I went in, properly, and were sick for the next four days. We went back up north and saw out our holiday up there. We went to and from Spain by boat – 24 hours each way, to and from Santander. The return sailing was rough and my brother got seasick.

I’ll give my brother a call now and see how much he remembers. My guess is a lot – he has very good recall of his early childhood. I’ll also see how much bog roll he has.

Is it time to panic yet?

I might have to lose my beard, dammit. I saw my doctor this evening, and he told me all my facial hair isn’t very face-mask-friendly. Yep, it’s got to that stage here. There’s currently a very Romanian headline on Digi24 (a national news site): Watch out in churches! Don’t kiss the icons! Don’t shake hands with other churchgoers! I’d seen all kinds of scare stories about empty shelves at the supermarket, but this afternoon everything was hunky-dory. I did pick up a few extra cans though. Who knows where this will end up. Timișoara is at some risk, because it’s the closest major Romanian city to Italy, Europe’s coronavirus outpost.

At this rate my parents will be cancelling their trip to Europe for the second summer running. Dad also has his latest mini (I hope) health scare. Yesterday he had a scan, and next week they’ll be shoving a camera down his willy, as he put it. In Wellington I worked with CCTV footage of drainage pipes; this sounds like a scaled-down version of the same thing.

The owners of this flat want to sell. They haven’t put my rent up in the three-plus years I’ve been here, while rents on average in Timișoara have soared by at least a third, so I’ve had a good run. But still, bugger. I’ve enjoyed being in this central location, and finding a new place at short notice is always a hassle. It’s possible I won’t have to move out at all, because the buyers are likely to be investors. The sale price is €100,000 – that’s a lot by local standards – and when the estate agent came on Monday to take photos, I could tell she thought it was overpriced. “But there’s no balcony! And all you can see from the window are the cathedral and the park!” If I do have to move, it might be worth forking out a bit extra for somewhere with a space that I can dedicate solely to teaching. For three years I’ve been teaching in my living room.

The book. I met with my Romanian teacher on Tuesday, and outlined to her my idea in what I thought was shocking Romanian. The idea is pretty simple. There are loads of English textbooks (and the like) written by Romanians, and sadly most of them are terrible. There are also plenty of English learning materials written by native speakers living in the UK or America, and these are, on average, eight times better. But they’re not geared towards Romanians and the aspects of English that they, specifically, find difficult. This is where I come in (I hope). I’ve given well in excess of 1500 lessons in my time here, and the same difficulties and mistakes crop up time and time again, often from students who otherwise communicate at a pretty decent level. I want to present each of these big-ticket items with a how-to-do-it page and an illustration. Luckily I know a man who can do rather good illustrations, and he seems willing to help during the times when he hasn’t got a camera stuck up his dick. My Romanian teacher knows the market and has some contacts, so hopefully I’ll be able to make a go of this.

Just doing my day job

There just isn’t a whole heap of news at the moment. Timișoara is balmy for the second half of February; the kids are disappointed we’ve had a virtually snowless winter, though I wouldn’t entirely discount an appearance of the white stuff in March.

I had my fourth lesson with the ten-year-old boy who continues to impress me. He knows the English alphabet upside down and backwards; most adults have a tough time with their G and J and E and I and W and Y but he managed just fine. His grandmother lives there, in their typically Romanian apartment, and I’m always amazed by her hair. Midway through the lesson she handed me a big bowl of frișcă, or whipped cream, topped with a kind of purée made from chestnuts. I’m not used to eating something that sweet in the middle of the day, and I only got through about half of it.

One of four lessons yesterday was with a guy who doesn’t lack confidence when it comes to speaking – for a lot of people that’s more than half the battle – but he’s still speaking Romanian with English words. I went through some exercises with the goal of getting him away from word-for-word translation, but they were rather tough for him.

This morning I had one of my rare half-and-half English and Romanian sessions at the university. In our previous session the teacher gave me a signed copy of her mother’s recently published children’s fantasy book about a dragon-like creature and a kite. The Romanian word for both of those things is the same – zmeu – hence it was a kind of play on words. It was a lovely story. I learnt that her mother is something of a celebrity in her home town of Alba Iulia. I meant to discuss my book idea with her, but we ran out of time. I did send her a message though and who knows, maybe I can start to get the ball rolling.

Dad’s sister seemed to have blocked his phone, and he thought she’d deliberately severed all lines of communication with him for good. But then on Sunday, out of the blue, she called him. She might be selfish and frustrating, but it turns out she isn’t actually an ogre.