A wintry blast

We had an early – and quite spectacular – flurry of snow on Thursday as I met Dorothy for coffee in Piața Unirii. Half an hour of dense, chunky, fluffy flakes. I can’t remember getting snow quite that early before. The Christmas market had just started – the Capital of Culture might have prompted an earlier start than usual. In my early days here, being among the aromas of mulled wine and chimney cakes and traditional meaty dishes was extremely satisfying. There was the parade for Romania’s national day on 1st December – almost upon us again – and all the lights and fireworks. It was all very new and exciting.

This morning I had an interesting first online lesson with a priest aged around sixty. He’s in the middle of a theological project, as far as I can tell, and wants to brush up on both his English and his Greek. He has a good command of Serbian and a smattering of Russian and French, having studied both those languages at school as was normal back then. It wasn’t an easy session because I had to speak Romanian most of the time (for some reason I struggled there), and we used Zoom which now has a 40-minute limit so we kept stopping and starting.

The evidence from the UK Covid inquiry just gets worse with every witness who speaks. Yesterday it was the turn of the metropolitan mayors. I didn’t realise that mask mandates came in so ridiculously late over there, months after they did in Romania. And finally, someone said it: you won’t magically save the economy by letting a deadly virus run riot. It isn’t a trade-off, for heaven’s sake. It’s amazing how much currency that bollocks had, and still has. It’s also become obvious how dangerously politicised the response to the pandemic was. Today Michael Gove, who was minister of education for four years, is giving evidence. Largely because of him I have to teach those bloody circle theorems that I struggle to remember myself.

I’ve almost given up on a Christmas UK trip. I could manage the seven-hour bus trips if I didn’t have to do the jolly Christmas crap too. One or the other, but not both.

Bamboozled

Yesterday I got a phone call from Florin, the guy I play tennis with. They’re seeing in the new year at the same place as last year. They already need numbers. Do I want to come? Of course I don’t, but it’ll only be a few hours and won’t it be good to at least show my face? It couldn’t have been that bad last time, surely? Luckily I have this blog to remind me, and there it is, in black and white and orange. It really was that bad, and I even vowed not to put myself through that again. The difficulty is finding an excuse. A way out. There’s also the prospect of Christmas in the UK. A horrendous time of year to go there or be there. My brother doesn’t particularly enjoy Christmas with his wife’s family because they really go to town with party games and other activities he can’t stand, and I totally sympathise with him. I hope if I decide not to travel there for Christmas and instead go over at Easter, he won’t think I don’t care. Sometimes I really miss Covid.

The UK Covid inquiry resumed this week. Patrick Vallance, the Chief Scientific Advisor, spoke unflatteringly of Boris Johnson. The former prime minister didn’t get the concept of exponential growth, or a heck of a lot else by the sound of things. In Vallance’s words, he was bamboozled. I liked Vallance’s comment about the heavy bias in government towards people with humanities backgrounds at the expense of science and maths. He said that it should be a 50-50 split, emphasising that a bias towards science and maths wouldn’t be a good thing either. Next week should be an absolute doozy – twat-in-chief Matt Hancock will be making an appearance, among others. The inquiry, or the bits I’ve seen so far, have thrown into sharp relief how dangerous the ministers and senior advisers were. The contrast between them and the general public, who were extremely compliant, could hardly be starker.

Maths last night. Plenty of bamboozlement there, as I started teaching my 15-year-old student the basics of probability. There are very few things in this world that I get, or that I’ve come somewhere close to mastering. Probability might just be one of them though, so you’d think I’d be on pretty firm ground. But there was one snag – this is Romania, and probability involves a whole ton of fractions. She really doesn’t get fractions, even at the most basic level. A half plus a quarter? Huh? I learnt about basic fractions when I was six or seven, before I ever touched decimals, but Romanians obviously didn’t, so when they join a British school where fractions abound in their maths classes they face an uphill battle. I’m in the middle of making a fractions worksheet (or workbook, as it might end up being). These things are all over the place online of course, but they’re (understandably) targeted at rather younger age groups.

Romania won their final qualifier against Switzerland 1-0 to finish their group in first place, with an impressive haul of 22 points from 10 games. It’ll be Romania’s first appearance in a major tournament since I arrived here. It was funny to watch the game against Israel on TV, where the local commentators didn’t even attempt to appear impartial.

A nippy start to the day as I had my lesson with the boy on the fifth floor. The lesson went well, though. Next week I’ll be starting lessons with her husband (a total beginner, she says, but I’m always skeptical about that).

Why is English so dominant? (And can I face a British Christmas?)

I managed 32 hours of lessons last week. I was my first time over 30 for a while. I always think of 30 as a good benchmark for a full, productive week, but cancellations had kept me below that level. After I got home from Dumbrăvița on Saturday I emailed Mum a logic problem about odd and even numbers that I’d given to Matei. She replied with the right answer. (It wasn’t immediately obvious to Matei that if you multiply two whole numbers and you get an odd number, both the numbers must be odd.) I thought about the night classes in maths she took when I was little, half her lifetime ago. She’d show me her book full of xs and ys. It would be nice if she could do something similar now.

At the weekend I read an article about the rise of English. It is undoubtedly the dominant language in the world, and is likely to remain so for some time. Most of this is down to American culture. Just look at Romania. As the country develops, slices of America keep popping up everywhere, with “Drive-Thru” and “Wash & Go” spelled out in English. Twenty-year-olds grew up on Cartoon Network. Teens (and even pre-teens) are all over TikTok – Chinese-owned but loaded with American popular culture. There were plenty of comments on the article, and some people said that the dominance of English isn’t only due to America, but also because it’s simply easier to communicate in than most other languages. “Me no like the cats” is very wrong but perfectly understandable to a native speaker. They’re partly right – English has few inflections, it lacks grammatical gender, and English text takes up less space than most other languages that use the Latin alphabet. But that’s only a small part of the story. Bad English is easy for us to understand precisely because we’re used to non-natives speaking English, or attempting to. We even simplify our language in return. I remember in Bali 30-plus years ago, where the locals often knew English but at a very basic level, Dad would say things like “Many motorbikes here” or “Takes long time?” It’s not the same with less widespread languages. If I utter a very bad Romanian version of “I don’t like cats”, my Romanian listener won’t have heard anything like that before in his life. He’ll be thinking WTF? So that puts a barrier in place to anyone trying to learn Romanian – you have to get to some kind of reasonable level before you can even start using the language. Its very pervasiveness is what makes English one of the easier languages to learn; in 2023 you’d have to be living under a rock to not know like or love or stop or OK. You get a lot of English for free, and that gives you a heck of a head start.

I don’t often watch football these days, but on Saturday I watched Romania’s Euro 2024 football qualifier against Israel, played in Budapest. It was originally meant to be played in Israel, but got moved for obvious reasons. If Romania avoided defeat, they’d qualify for next summer’s competition in Germany. Israel took the lead in only the second minute, then Romania equalised in the tenth. That dramatic start set up a very watchable game. Romania took the lead midway through the second half and held their advantage until the end. They probably should have won by more – a player by the name of Mihăilă missed a sitter and then got himself sent off just before the end. Romanian football, and sport in general, has been in the doldrums for a while, so it’s nice that they qualified. Beneficiaries of a pretty easy group it must be said, they’re unbeaten in nine games (five wins, four draws) and if they can get at least a draw against Switzerland in Bucharest tomorrow night they’ll top the group and in theory have an easier ride in the final tournament.

This song popped up on YouTube – Sleeping Satellite, Tasmin Archer’s one-hit wonder. It came out in 1992 and was the very first song on Now 23, one of the first tapes I ever had. A complex song, unique in many ways, with levels of rhyme adeptly woven into the lyrics. It brings back memories of a more optimistic time.

Last night I watched the first episode of the new series of Charlie Ottley’s Flavours of Romania. It’s on Netflix; I thoroughly recommend it. I hope to get a few ideas for road trips, for when I finally do own a car. I also watched Noel Philips’ trip from Amsterdam to Paramaribo (the capital of Suriname) – a nine-hour flight on an Airbus A340.

My brother called me on Saturday. My nephew was bouncing around, on the verge of walking. A very happy chappy. He’s fascinated by the cat, though the cat seems less fascinated by him. I’m thinking of going over there for Christmas, but can I face it? What I’ll really want are about four days with little risk of having to see or communicate with anyone.

A talking time machine and the great divide

When Mum was on the way to Christchurch to pick up Dad on Tuesday, she dropped in on her mother’s cousin Pat who now lives in a care home in Ashburton. Pat is 106 (!) years old – she was born during the First World War – and remarkably still has all her marbles. In this meeting Pat told Mum about her car journey from Christchurch to Dunedin at the age of four. A car journey of that distance would have been a mission back then, and something quite astonishing for a four-year-old; I can see how she still has a clear memory of it more than a century later. What was the car? Her family wasn’t wealthy as far as I know, so how did she end up in that car in the first place? What were the roads like? How long did it take? I’ll ask Mum the next time I speak to her; our conversation quickly moved on to the building work. Last year the local radio station had a phone-in where anyone who remembered Elizabeth’s coronation (in 1953) could call in and regale the listeners of their memories of the day. Pat called in. “I remember when she was born?” Um, sorry, what, you’d have to be at least a hundred. “Yes. Do you have a problem with that?” That might not have been exactly how it went down, but I know there was disbelief on the part of the host.

Yesterday I had a late finish – a face-to-face maths lesson between 7 and 9pm, followed by an online English session. In our maths lesson, among many other topics (her schoolteacher switches between topics at a maddening rate) I helped my 15-year-old student divide by decimal numbers smaller than one, without using a calculator. We think of division as sharing – that word was used at school, I remember – and sharing money or sweets or bottles of orange juice between two or three or ten people all feels natural. But sharing between half or a tenth or 0.08 of a person – what on earth could that even mean? When you divide by something less than one, you end up with more than what you started with, and that messes with people’s heads. It goes against what people intuitively feel that division does. By chance, earlier in the week I stumbled upon a blog post that used bottles of juice as an intuitive basis for dividing by small decimals. When I explained how to divide 24 by 0.08, I asked her first to imagine 24 litres of orange juice and (big!) 8-litre bottles. How many bottles would all that juice go into? She correctly said three. Now imagine the bottles are 0.08 of a litre. You know, tiny, the size that you could take through airport security. You’d need loads of ’em, right? Turns out it’s 300. Move the decimal point two digits to the right, or in this case add two zeros. I told my English student about my maths lesson – she’s an accountant and has a strong mathematical background – and she couldn’t understand how my student didn’t just know to do these division problems. She’s fifteen, for crying out loud. Can’t she just think of that decimal as a fraction and go from there? No. So much of being a good maths teacher is empathy. Just because you got it at a young age and it all seems obvious to you, that doesn’t mean they will. And I certainly wouldn’t want to introduce fractions into the problem – fractions seem to frighten the living bajeezus out of Romanian teenagers.

Earlier today I watched this video of somebody multiplying and squaring numbers showmanlike, faster than a calculator. His party piece came at the end: working out 37,691 squared in his head. I actually paused the video and tried to do this. It’s not the worst five-digit number to have to square. It’s 9 away from 37,700. The repeated 7 helps. All (!) you have to do is square 377 and tack on four zeros, then find 18 lots of 37,700 then take that away, then add on 81. Hey presto, Bob’s your uncle. But there’s a catch. You end up with a ten-digit number, and my brain is nowhere near capable of storing that many digits while also carrying out calculations. I gave up. He can also calculate the day of the week that a particular date falls on, which is something I saw people do at the autism groups I used to attend. I recently had a go at this 21-question hard mental arithmetic test. I tried to do the questions as fast as possible, and got 17 correct.

The weather is wet and nasty. I had to go out in it this morning, for a lesson with a 12-year-old boy who lives on the fifth and top floor of a block of flats with no lift. He’s a nice kid. We mostly did the simple past tense in all its glory.

He’s back, and so is Mum’s stress

I spoke to Mum last night, not long after she’d picked up Dad from the airport. After seeming pretty calm while Dad was away, she suddenly looked stressed again. She was frustrated with the building work progressing too slowly and having to cook for two people with facilities that are even more limited than when I was there. Dad’s journey, which included a 16-hour Dubai-to-Sydney leg, was tiring but he managed. It wasn’t as arduous as my trip, which could have gone horribly wrong in a number of ways. (Of course I’m a lot younger and should be able to cope with the more taxing route.)

I had two more phone chats with Dad before he left, and they helped clear the air after the argument I had with him earlier. I felt upset that my parents attach such a shockingly low financial value to seeing their own family, but also bad that I ended up in an argument with a mild-mannered man like my father. In our last chat he said he’d spoken to my brother who expressed similar views to mine. He’s getting it from both of us. His last meeting with his sister went fine; he’d been an enormous help to her over that month. I wonder what will happen next. Will her children bother to visit?

I see that David Cameron, who isn’t even an MP, is back in cabinet as foreign secretary. Appointing someone to the Lords and then giving him a cabinet position is a new one on me. I thought you had to be, like, elected or something. Shows you what I know.

Tennis finished for the season on Sunday. It was just me and Florin, and this time common sense prevailed – the surface was slippery after the previous day’s deluge, so we just hit balls for an hour without keeping score.

Plenty of work. I had that boy for two hours again this morning, just like last week. It’s a real test of stamina. I’m trying to gently persuade one of my students to stop having lessons with me – she’s extremely spoilt and unmotivated, and she’s taking up a slot I could give to someone else.

Play time

I’ve just had an argument with Dad on his last full day in the UK. We talked about him and Mum possibly making the trip in six months’ time. “We have to consider the cost.” No, Dad, you really don’t. I’m fully sympathetic to all the factors that make the trip difficult for you, but the cost isn’t one of them. It isn’t even close to being one of them. Dad will visit his sister later today – it might be the last time they meet.

Last night I saw a comedy play at the theatre with Dorothy and Sanda. I got wet on my bike ride to Scârț, a place that houses a bar, a museum of communism, and an amateur theatre company called Auăleu. (Auăleu is a Romanian exclamation, used similarly to “Oh my god”.) The theatre sat 50 people; I was on the front row (of two) next to Sanda, but wished I was on a hypothetical tenth row. Being that close to the stage was rather intimidating. The play was called Grand Hostel Timișoara. Guests of various nationalities booked in, and the comedy came from all the national stereotypes as well as local jokes about Timișoara in 2023 (supposedly it’s the European Capital of Culture, though you wouldn’t know it) and other in-jokes, only some of which I got. After the interval the guests came back to the hostel having visited the city and suffered all kinds of mishaps. Some of the actors could clearly actually speak the native languages of the guests – German, French, Hungarian, and so on. The play was partly improvised and was very clever and well done, though it wasn’t quite my thing. Being in Timișoara for “only” seven years didn’t help, and political jokes about Schengen or neighbouring countries’ accession to the EU left me cold. I’ll happily go back though and see something else if the opportunity arises.

Plenty of interesting lessons last week. One was with a woman who is always ever so busy in her work as a middle manager at a large bank, to the point where she often has to cut short her meetings with me. I still haven’t figured out the purpose of our sessions. Business English? Well, she’s got that down to a tee already. A simple chat? Maybe, but our discussions rarely stray from the corporate world. Last Tuesday she talked about how good it felt in her previous job to be given so much power; in that job she was the sole determiner of who got what access to vital IT systems at a company she didn’t even work for. With no sense of irony, she said “I felt like a rock star.” That responsibility would terrify me. I could, like, accidentally press something that shut down everyone’s access at a stroke. Then on Friday I helped a woman prepare for a job interview in English, which she has tomorrow. The first thing I did was browse her CV. She, like many Romanians, uses an automated CV system which produces personality-free walls of text in a tiny font. Her first inscrutable wall of text related to her current job. “So, what do you actually do?” Robots. Directing robots. Fixing robots. Ordering new robots. “Why, then, are there over a hundred words in this paragraph and not one mention of robots?” Robot is a fun, eye-catching word, even if it’s a bit scary. (Incidentally it comes from a Czech word meaning “forced labour”.) But I couldn’t persuade her to move away from that dreadful vagueness. I then saw that at the bottom of the CV she said she was at a C1 level in English listening, but B1 in all the other disciplines (reading, writing and speaking). Why the big gap, I wondered. (C1 is miles better than B1.) I can understand anything anyone says. That’s why I’m C1. I suggested that she visited a British pub and tried to follow a conversation – jokes, regional accents, people arguing and talking over each other. It became apparent during our interview practice that she didn’t really know what she’d be doing if she got the job. Not her fault – the job description was hopelessly vague. I’m so glad I’ve left the corporate world behind.

Another highlight was an 11-year-old boy’s piece of creative writing, in which he said there were “cloudy clouds” in the sky. Then yesterday I had maths with Matei. Fractions reared their ugly head again. He can add, subtract, multiply and divide them, but conceptually he hasn’t the foggiest, and that’s starting to cause a problem.

I’ll soon be playing tennis for the last time in 2023.

Too much tech

I’m enjoying the cooler weather. Even in the first half of October the heat sapped me of energy, but now it’s like being in New Zealand again. I’m sleeping much better. Also, getting over those two hurdles has helped me to relax more. Not as many stress-inducing WhatsApp messages about things I don’t fully understand.

Dad only has a few days left until he goes back to New Zealand. He’s looking forward to it. This trip has provoked considerable anxiety in him; it’s been sad to see. Years ago, when his mother was still alive, he’d make the trip to the UK and not think anything of it. In fact he still felt more at home there than in New Zealand. I asked him what had changed. The UK being a country in decline? Just a case of getting old? No, he said that undoubtedly it was technology. The modern requirement to be connected all the time has made his time in the UK a misery. One minute Skype wasn’t working, then Outlook, then something else on his phone. It was like he was discussing a debilitating medical condition that could compromise his vital functions at any moment. He longed for the simplicity of physical maps and people at desks selling train tickets. I sympathise with Dad because I’ve found tech to be increasingly invasive. I want to use it when I need it, then forget about it. Yesterday I had to visit the bank; my query that was supposed to be about transferring money degenerated into talk of passwords and PIN codes and apps. I simply didn’t want to know.

Dad’s trip hasn’t been all bad. When I spoke to him last night he’d just been over to see some friends. On his near-daily visits to his sister, he’s had quite long chats with her that have often brought up memories of happier times. He said his last visit will be a tough one – it might well be the last time he sees her.

As for Mum, she’s doing pretty well. We can now make WhatsApp calls, and last time she gave me a quick video tour of the renovation. It’s all taking shape and looking increasingly housey and kitcheny. Mum has been winning golf competitions and even won a Melbourne Cup sweepstake at the golf club earlier this week. I told her that she and Dad should use her winnings to go out for a proper slap-up meal when he gets back. One day last week she was annoyed with Dad for going on about his technological woes when she’d been painting walls all day and hadn’t spoken to anyone else. She’s been exasperated at Dad’s lack of technological dexterity, when in reality she’s at the same level.

My parents have never been into tech, and when they did buy a gadget it was usually cheap and crappy. My classmates at school were constantly talking about the films they’d seen on video (a VCR that might have set their parents back a month’s salary – these things were expensive) but we didn’t get a video recorder until Dad bought one from a car boot sale when I was 16.

I’m about to have a two-hour online lesson with the boy I made cry back in January. Her mother just told me. Shoot me now.

Terrifyingly shit

I’ve just been watching a YouTube video from the Royal Institution about ultra-processed foods. The subject of obesity comes up a lot, especially when you talk to non-overweight older people. The younger generations (which include anyone under 60!) are too stupid and lazy and immoral to eat proper food and they don’t know when to stop and blah blah blah. A few years ago a photo of Brighton Beach in the 1970s (it was probably during the heatwave of 1976) did the rounds. Look how slim everyone was back then! The implication was that we’ve all got stupider and lazier since then. The real story is the increased availability of all that ultra-processed junk (and in some cases non-junk, or at least marketed as non-junk), not a massive loss of willpower that began in the late seventies and occurred in both men and women and across all ages and ethnicities. Willpower is a thing, and some of us are blessed with more of it than others, but the idea that humans lost it en masse a few decades ago is ludicrous. What the video didn’t quite go into (but Yuval Noah Harari’s Sapiens books did) was how incompatible modern food availability and consumption are to the caveman instincts that we still have. I live in Timișoara where I have a substantial market within walking distance and half a dozen more markets a reasonable bike ride away, so most of what I eat doesn’t even have an ingredients list. Most people aren’t so lucky.

Last week some lurid language came out of the UK Covid inquiry, but the expression that stuck in my mind was Dominic Cummings’ (who else) description of Cabinet Office in March 2020 as terrifyingly shit. I can’t stand Cummings, but it was a pretty accurate description. The handling of the pandemic at that point was dangerously, frighteningly, life-threateningly, bad. From my last few conversations with Dad, he has a similar view of the UK as a whole. A country unravelling, with few prospects for improvement. If Labour win the next election, they’ll hopefully drive out the sheer toxicity of the Tories, but there’s little sense that they’ll make any meaningful positive change. It’s all very different from the feeling before the 1997 election. Indeed I remember a conversation I had with Dad in 1993 – he was my current age then – in which we talked driving across the vastness of Russia and the former Soviet Union, not long after it had all opened up. Now there’s no optimism, no sense of hope at all on a scale beyond one’s own immediate family and friends. That’s terrifying.

Lock them up

I’ve been following the UK Covid inquiry, and all I can say is lock the bastards up. The mishandling of the early stages of the pandemic went well beyond incompetence; these people were actively toxic. They were egomaniacs who behaved like playground bullies and were only in their positions because they supported Brexit. (The pandemic coming right after the brain drain of the December 2019 election was such unfortunate timing.) As senior civil servant Helen MacNamara (who wasn’t blameless herself) said in her hearing yesterday, there was an absence of humanity among the people in charge. For Boris Johnson and Matt Hancock, old people, poor people, and frankly all people who lacked their privileges, were expendable. Dominic Cummings, who gave his evidence on Tuesday, was just as bad. The insults that came from this special – unelected – advisor, mostly in WhatsApp messages, were shocking in their language. Making the right decisions didn’t matter to these c***s (as Mr Cummings would say); they only cared about whether the decisions made them look good. And what were they doing governing by WhatsApp anyway? They cost tens of thousands of lives. They should all go to prison for several years, and be banned from public office or indeed earning more than the national average income when they come out.

On Sunday I met Mark in town. We had lunch at Berăria 700, both opting for bulz – a bowl of cheese, bacon and mămăligă with an egg on top. Not the healthiest meal, but delicious. The funny bit was ordering the beer. Large or small? “Large, I suppose.” We thought that “large” meant a halbă which is just under a pint, but no, we got these great big steins that must have been a litre each. With the food and the sunny weather, getting through them wasn’t a problem. I showed him around the nearby market which for some reason he’d never been to before. He was amazed by the flowers, which are the most sense-engaging part of the whole thing. Just before we parted company, we discussed our good fortune at living in Timișoara – beautiful, lively, genuine, and (touch wood) safe. I played just one hour of tennis after that. Since then, the week has been a bit of a disappointment with so many cancellations caused by the Romanian equivalent of half-term, which only started to be a thing last year. All in all I can’t complain – I’m feeling much more relaxed than a couple of weeks ago. Last night I had a long chat with my friend in Birmingham, which was nice. Like Mum in Geraldine, he’s busy painting walls. I also spoke to Dad yesterday. Seeing his sister every day is leaving him exhausted. Britain is now being gripped by a storm. He’ll be flying back home in eleven days; he wishes it were sooner.